The longest build thread ever, at least it seems like it!

[Kaiserjeeps]

Originally Posted by teking

I love the fresh air vents. Want to do that to mine. Where did you get them???

EDIT: NVRMND there are a bunch of them on EBAY

Well you beat me to it. I had to look a little but found a pair with covers. I don't have the knobs as I only have one set. But you could probably find them or use a throttle push pull knob set. The hard part would be finding one 73 inches long. The drivers side is 30 knob to bent rod tip. This is the bend you need. RC model stores have the Z bend pliers cheap that will make the correct rod end. Don't let the dirt fool you. They clean up well.




Now I found these. If you want them they are yours. Because of the generosity of M38inmaine, I now have a chance to pay it forward. If you would like these Tom, PM me your address. I will send them. If you find a set on ebay with the push pull knobs for a good deal, maybe that would be a good path. But these are yours if you like. I will include the cardboard pattern and correct location too.



I am wanting to work on the truck today. To much to do... It will be there later I am sure. Back to work I go.

[Kaiserjeeps]

Teking,
I cleaned up my full inbox. Sorry bout that. Send (PM) me your address and I will get them on the way. Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to pay it forward someday with another zone member.

[benjamintx@gmail.com]

Looking awesome, Kaiser! What did you topcoat the SEM product with?

Also, what are you planning to do for paint on the body? I saw you used a rattle can primer to stop surface rust on the upper cab repair but is that just temporary? What primera do you like for the sheet metal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Kaiserjeeps]

Yes, the cab is really looking great! I am so close to moving to the front sheet metal and the bed. I top coated the SEM with Eastwoods black internal frame paint. It has a lot of zinc and some type of phenolic resins that looks good on the label. I have used it extensively on the last wagoneer I restored. One thing I did after paint on the wag was heavily spray 3M cavity wax on every interior panel after the Eastwood paint. I will do that on the M715 here but only after it is completely painted. I have the 1 inch access holes 2 each on the back wall of the rocker panel. I keep forgetting to show the nice rubber plugs I got from summit. I will post them and the part number later.

This is the color I am leaning towards. I thought about the olive brown and even the Dakota brown. Honestly with all black trim parts, I think the buckskin tan would really look sharp. Second choice is the olive brown.

https://tcpglobal.com/collections/ho...t-Buckskin-Tan

I would use the primer that goes with the Hotrod flatz. It is urethane. I don't like spraying urethanes. No filter cartridge made will filter out isocyanates. Not one. People don't realize this. You have to use a fresh air respirator. I had to get one for the wagoneer work. It was stupid expensive. They are awkward as heck to spray with. But I don't want to poison myself. Of course I found all this out AFTER buying all the wagoneer paint. Oops...
I asked the paint company if they would flatten an acrylic enamel. Nope what you see is what you get.
I will probably spray it outside. LOL.

Originally Posted by benjamintx@gmail.com

Looking awesome, Kaiser! What did you topcoat the SEM product with?

Also, what are you planning to do for paint on the body? I saw you used a rattle can primer to stop surface rust on the upper cab repair but is that just temporary? What primera do you like for the sheet metal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[benjamintx@gmail.com]

Man I hear you on the urethanes. Architects often want matte finish on steel in our builds and I’ve had great success with the pro industrial acrylics from Sherwin Williams.

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...urface-acrylic

I wonder if that would work on our sheet metal?

PPG also has a line called Pitt Tech that I haven’t used. I think the lowest sheen they come in is egg-shell but it seems like you could top it with a flat clear coat to knock it down?

I did think that the magenta/olive 3m cartridges would catch isocyanates? I don’t risk it with my guys anyways but it would be good to know if those cartridges don’t work!

I like the tan with black accents, would look awesome!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Kaiserjeeps]

Yes double check on any cartridge for is ability to remove the isocyanates. Last I read several years ago nothing worked well. I had bought all the paint for the wagoneer and THEN found out the issue. TCP global would not take 1500 in paint back so I had to buy a fresh air system. It is very difficult to paint with them. Managing two air lines. Getting the fresh air hose stuck while you are walking and have your head yanked back. A regular hoot...

I will have a look at the Sherwin Williams and PPG. I have not settled on a black statin for the frame and all the nit noids yet. I was gong to use cerakote glacier black. But it is super expensive and does not sand well later. That cerakote is good for 1800 degrees. For manifolds it is just incredible.

I hope to be back on the truck later today. Gotta go mail a bunch of stuff and get a new bottle of welding gas. Mine decided to empty itself.
Thanks for the great feedback. I want to be ready for painting weather. My 30 minute window this summer.