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Thread: Camper Special

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Methuen, MA
    Posts
    323

    Default

    I have the front end in and started mocking up the motor mounts before quitting time. This is how it looks now.

    The first thing to go, as I make space for the motor, is the steering brace. I'll have to find another way of bracing the box but in the meantime the stock brace is gone. The other 2 cross braces are still in place.

    As I set it up for the motor mount/crossmember, it looks like it will end up about 2" above the top of the frame rails. I'll have to make some brackets for the upper 2 bolts o the crossmember. This is the one thing I'd like to see in another M715, just to see how high and where exactly others have mounted this. Any thoughts? Anyone have any pics of this crossmember?

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

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    Were havin' fun now! My crossmember is 13/4 taller than the frame. I used a piece of angle to slide up against the backside and trimmed then welded. You have to keep an eye on your steering shaft to crossmember clearance along with your p.s. gearbox to rag joint clearance. I notched my crossmember for the steering shaft clearance but i think if you use a small aftermarket ujoint you can drop your crossmember to about a 11/4 and not hit the shaft.I just made a drop brkt for the steering stiffener.If your exhaust is too tight , cut the weld off where it hooks to turbo and cut an inch out of it ad reweld. Rear crossmember will work if you want to keep it simple and weld heavy 11/2 angle to the outside of the frame. It did with my getrag anyway.

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

    Default

    Sorry, that was rag joint to p/s / vac pump clearance.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

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    Looking really good!

    I think if you tilt the engine rearwards, you may not need as much of a suspension/body lift to fit it...

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Methuen, MA
    Posts
    323

    Default

    Yesterday was a long day.
    After driving to 4 machine shops trying to find someone with a reamer to drill the taper in the steering arm, I finally found a guy to do it. Problem is that he won't have it done until Mon or Tue. It needs steering to get it out of the garage.

    Then work started on the motor mounts. To mount the crossmember above the frame I used the rear M725 spring plate and cut it in half. The holes lined up with the upper holes in the crossmember and I have equal sized brackets for both sides. You can see that here:

    You see I notched the crossmember to fit the steering shaft and yes it's still the manual box. I'll have to upgrade to p/s later. The pic gives you a good idea of what the cummins crossmember looks like in the M7XX frame. The holes in the frame for the shock mount give a point of reference for anyone else doing this swap. I still have to drill the frame for the lower crossmember holes, 2 each side. The way it looks now, there's room for the radiator and I can't imagine it going back much farther. The motor would have to be lowered but then comes close to the pitman arm. Anyway, I'm happy with it but you always wonder what will creep up in the future.

    Here it is with the hood, grill and fenders on:


    And the exterior:


    Obviously the front ended up much higher than the rear, I'll have to remove a couple leaves. These spring just don't move! I couldn't believe when I drop the cummins it might compress an INCH!?!

    Chris, I'm curious how this set up looks compared to yours, about the same?

    Mikel, you need more clearance if you use this crossmember vs custom mounts on the side of the frame. I don't think you could use this SUA, could I use less lift? Yes but I thought the front springs would compress more. I just need to make it even with the rear, besides it's an excuse to run 40's

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

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    I pulled one leaf out of each pack and the front end rides nice. I used a newer dodge truck lift block one the rear and it sits pretty level. You have to remember that those springs will rest a little more when you drive it down the road and bounce it around a little.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

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    Now what are you going to do about the fan? It will be too close to the radiator for the stock fan to work. That crossmember fits in there pretty nice though. I should have my truck liscensed and on the road in a week or two. I can't wait!

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Panther View Post

    Mikel, you need more clearance if you use this crossmember vs custom mounts on the side of the frame. I don't think you could use this SUA, could I use less lift? Yes but I thought the front springs would compress more. I just need to make it even with the rear, besides it's an excuse to run 40's
    Iīm using F-450 front springs under my 6BT

    Looking really good. I canīt wait to see it running.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ST LOUIS,MO
    Posts
    277

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    Any new pics?

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Methuen, MA
    Posts
    323

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    Wish I had more but it's out of the garage which means outside now subject to the weather.

    I've been giving some thought to tires.
    NTW has a deal on 40 procomp xt's for $300


    and I'm thinking about the procomp black steelies w/ round holes.


    5 will run me about 2k and I'm working on freeing up the funds for the tires.

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