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Thread: need a part number

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    southwest virginia
    Posts
    84

    Default need a part number

    anyone have a part number for a master cylinder that will replace the stock one and work with the stock pedal and arm
    my rear seal is bout to go.
    any help will be appreciated

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    Do you want a single reservoir unit like stock or do you plan to do a conversion to a dual reservoir type?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    southwest virginia
    Posts
    84

    Default

    havnt really thought that far into it, would i get much more stopping power if I divided them up?I know I would have to seperate the front and rear, and run some more brake line but would it help with the stock drums.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    It doesnt give more braking but it does give more safety. All vehicles made for passenger/general public sales and use from 1967 on MUST have dual circuit masters by federal law. The M715 and siblings, G890 series, didnt have to meet this as they werent for the general public...otherwise it would already be there...

    If one line pops anywhere on a stock truck...or the master goes or etc....the whole brake systm is null and void. If the same thing happens on a dual circuit master, there is still braking to either the front or rear brakes...reduced performance for sure but beats the heck out of nothing....these days I think they call it a "limp in mode".

    Safety is a good thing...especially in a big truck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    It doesnt give more braking but it does give more safety. All vehicles made for passenger/general public sales and use from 1967 on MUST have dual circuit masters by federal law. The M715 and siblings, G890 series, didnt have to meet this as they werent for the general public...otherwise it would already be there...

    If one line pops anywhere on a stock truck...or the master goes or etc....the whole brake systm is null and void. If the same thing happens on a dual circuit master, there is still braking to either the front or rear brakes...reduced performance for sure but beats the heck out of nothing....these days I think they call it a "limp in mode".

    Safety is a good thing...especially in a big truck.

    Ditto that, especially if you plan on driving the truck.

    A power booster is a nice feature to add as well. Makes it stop that much easier.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    southwest virginia
    Posts
    84

    Default

    thanks for the advice
    does anyone have a part number for a master cylinder that will work?
    If you have both single and dual replacement let me have both,then I can make up my mind later.ive been drivin the truck for 15 years,if the brakes do go out the parker brake works pretty good to stop,or just gear the thing down

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    southwest virginia
    Posts
    84

    Default thought of something else

    hey while im at it ill probably replace the wheel cylenders as well,is there a replacement part number for them as well that i can get at the napa?
    any help will be appreciated

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    For the stock master cylinder, I think it is this number at Napa: 2100 Only thing is you have to buy it from them new not rebuilt and its well over $100. Check the mil surplus guys and you should save money there.

    Wheel cylinders...if you are willing to modify your backing plates just a little, you can get a cheaper than stock wheel cylinder with stainless steel pistons. The only difference is that the mounting holes are slightly off. Just need to take a rat tail file or grindr and open the bottom of the holes in the bcking plate by ¼ to ½ of the hole height. I used washers on the bolts to insure against pull through. Many members hav done this and there have been no pproblems reported. They have the same internal sizes, including the pistons, and the stock M715 metal lines hook right up. Heres the part number info:

    37262 and 37263
    Application is 93 Ford F-250 van.
    One is left and one is right...same front and rear.


    If you want the stock ones, Memphis Equipment, Antelope Valley, VPW and others will have them...probably AB Linn as well.


    For a dual circuit master, you have to change the master and change the brake line for the front...add a new line from the master and put a tee in the line to run to the 2 front brake lines. Run the rear brakes line from the front port of the master cylinder to the stock brake tee on the frame below the stock master...where the brake switch is...

    Members have used a few different dual circuit masters to do the swap...heres links to info on using a Corvette non power dual circuit master:





    http://m715zone.proboards102.com/ind...7909278&page=1

    http://m715zone.proboards102.com/ind...0651741&page=1

    http://m715zone.proboards102.com/ind...7027248&page=1

    http://m715zone.com/vb/showthread.ph...light=corvette

  9. #9

    Default

    Just a question. How come people are not rebuilding their existing wheel cylinders with new pistons and rubber cup seals? I know you can get them. If the cylinder walls are not pitted they are very reusable. I'm just wondering is all.
    Since I am busy but unemployed I can research this if there is a desire.

    I'm just sayin..
    Liz, covid, murdered 10/19/21

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,524

    Default

    I know some people had looked at this some time back...

    Pitting is a problem in some trucks as the open vent on the master and lack of proper maintenance combine to cause the pitting badly in some.

    I seem to remember people saying the pistons and seals werent available anymore...at least that the previously available supply of rebuild kits had dried up...I am guessing you know better than I...I must honestly say I havent looked into this.

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