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Thread: My second M715 build. What was I thinking?

  1. #231
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    I figured out my fuel problem.

    The first thing I did was check the fuel filter. I unscrewed the drain plug and nothing came out. After closer inspection I found I was missing a hose clamp on the line from the filter base to my electric lift pump. When I tugged on it I pulled it almost off the barb fitting. I found a clamp and installed it and since I had already charged the batteries it fired right up like a new truck.

    I haven't looked into the battery issue yet. One thing I am planning to do is run a wire between the negative terminals of the batteries. I currently have each battery negative grounded to the engine. One battery negative also goes to the body. I think I may need to install a wire between the frame and the body and between the frame and the engine.

  2. #232
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper View Post

    I figured out my fuel problem.
    Or maybe not...

    If my first truck would have had this many problems it may have been my last.

    I took it for a test drive earlier this week after I thought I had my fuel problem resolved. While I was testing it out I got up to about 50 MPH and started feeling a vibration. Then all of a sudden my drive shaft let loose. It banged up the bottom of my truck with a couple thuds then flew out from under the truck across the oncoming lane and into the weeds. Luckily there was no one around when that happened. That could have been much worse.

    Since I still didn't have the front drive shaft installed yet I needed a tow home. I went back and found the drive shaft in the weeds and picked it up. The next day I dropped it off at the company that made my jack shaft. I picked up the new drive shaft today. They didn't re-use any of the original.

    I got it home and decided I'd install the front drive shaft and take it for a quick spin to see if I had any vibration without the read drive shaft installed.

    I started the truck and shifted it into 4wd and started backing up. The engine started sputtering again and stalled out as if I'm out of fuel. The tank is almost full. I'm sure there is at least 20 and probably closer to 24 gallons in the tank.

    I spent most of this evening trying to figure out why it's stalling.

    So my starter is wired to a momentary toggle switch I mounted in the dash. It's a SPDT on off on switch. The up position is the starter and the down position is my electric lift pump.

    When my truck stalled I immediately activated the electric lift pump to try and prime the line. I can hear a difference in the pump when it's working hard or when it's not. It sounded like it was working hard. The truck would not re-start on its own. I drained the batteries trying and I needed to drag it back to its parking spot and connect a charger. I have a 200 amp jumper charger and the batteries were taking about 40 amps when I connected them.

    So while the batteries were re-charging I decided to start back at the tank and check the fuel line all the way to the front of the truck to the mechanical lift pump. I can't find any problem with the line or any hoses. All those parts were new anyway.

    Next I disconnected the hose from the hard line after the electric pump. There was so much pressure in the line I got diesel fuel sprayed all over me. That lead me to think maybe the solenoid on the IP isn't working. I can hear it clicking electrically but wasn't sure how to verify it was actually opening. I decided if it was opening I should have fuel in the return line so I disconnected the return line hose from the hard line and had a good stream of fuel coming out.

    Seeing that everything seemed like it was good I tried again to start the truck. It started up but it did take a bit of time to have it running smooth. It had a little air in the lines I'm sure. Once it was running smooth I let it idle for about 10 minutes and it seemed to run fine while it did.

    So all of this leads me to the conclusion that it has to be Donald Trumps fault that my truck stalled out...




    I'm hoping to take a test drive without the rear drive shaft in the morning and then another with the new rear drive shaft after that.

    If I have a fuel problem again tomorrow I think it's down to dropping the tank to see if I have a problem in there.

  3. #233
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield CT
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Did you "seal" the tank? I had a friend who did and would occasionally clog the pickup with a leftover bit of sealer....Does it suck so hard that it could collapse a hose?
    Is that real money?

  4. #234
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Southern New Hampshire
    Posts
    242

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    Are you not running it with a lift pump? Going back in your last post, you said you activated the pump after it stalled.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #235
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

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    Quote Originally Posted by 67smith View Post
    Are you not running it with a lift pump? Going back in your last post, you said you activated the pump after it stalled.
    I have the stock 6.2 manual lift pump as well as an electric pump that I installed near the tank. The electric pump was installed in case I ever did run out of fuel or when I change the fuel filter which is also near the tank. The idea was that if the lines were empty I could fill them before I cranked the engine over to save the batteries.

    I didn't line the tank with anything. It was pretty rusty inside when I got it but I cleaned it out pretty well before I put it in use. I do plan on getting a new tank down the road but this one should be fine for a couple years (I hope).

    I keep comparing this truck to my first one because that one is what I am familiar with. On my first truck I never had a problem with the tank rusting on the inside once I converted the engine to a diesel. The diesel oil seemed to keep the tank from rusting. At least that was my assumption.

    At this point I'm leaning towards a problem with or at the injection pump but mainly because all the lines still had fuel in them when it wouldn't start back up yesterday. Although the first time it did this the filter was empty which doesn't fit well with an IP related problem.

    I'm also wondering if I need to turn the fuel up on the IP because of the turbo? I wouldn't think I would have a problem at low RPM but I don't really know much about turbos to be honest.

  6. #236
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    The ip fuel rate will only effect power output at higher loads. Not idle as you already suggested.

    My intank pickup used to clog every few months. This was after I had the tank boiled at a radiator shop. A shot of air into the fuel tank through the line would clear it up. When I put in the 6.2 with a mechanical lift pump it never happened again.

    However, I spent more than a month of priming the ip, getting the truck to run, move it 30 feet just to have it die. Then repeat after I changed a fuel line, tightened a clamp, replaced a fitting, etc...

    Looking back I should have just put everything between the inside of the tank and the ip inlet new.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #237
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Thanks Tim. Everything from the tank to the IP is new. Even the mechanical lift pump.

    Good news bad news for me on my test drive. My good news is there is no vibration from the driveline. My bad news is the engine stalled about 1/2 mile from home. I had my son come drag me home again. I tried starting the engine while I was being towed and it fired for a brief second then would not fire over again. The filter is full of fuel so I think the line is as well.

    I think I will be swapping out the IP today and see if anything changes. I will probably get one rebuilt soon anyway but I'd like to get this truck back on the road sooner than my budget will allow a rebuild of a pump.

    From what I've been reading lots of white smoke at start up, hard starts and stalling are all symptoms of IP failure. I've been noticing all of those symptoms lately.

  8. #238
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

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    I didn't get the IP changed out today but I did get started. There was still fuel in the IP when I took the cover off which leads me to believe I have found the problem.

    With as much as is involved in swapping the pump I'm a little reluctant to put in an unknown used pump. I really would like to put in a known rebuilt pump. But since I don't have the money right now I will end up installing the other pump I already have that is unknown.

  9. #239
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    I'm convinced a new IP is in my future. I've tried and tried to get the pump bled but am not getting fuel through the lines to the injectors. After trying each night this week (many times) I got my son to tow me behind my Duramax today. As we pulled out of the driveway I got a nice puff of smoke from the tailpipe but the engine didn't really start and I never saw any smoke or felt any attempt to fire after that.

    One thing I did notice though is one of my gauges cycling as if I were turning the ignition on and off repeatedly. My EGT gauge moves the needle all the way up then drops back down on power on. It did that constantly during my starting attempts.

    I figured if I did indeed have an electrical problem preventing the IP from allowing fuel maybe I could bypass the truck wiring and power the IP directly from the battery. If it started I could disconnect the jumper wire to stop the engine. So I tried that. It never started. It didn't even sound like it was trying.

  10. #240
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    After all my failure I finally figured out my IP solenoid isn't opening the flow of fuel.

    I took the cover off and wedged a rod inside to mimic the solenoid. I figured if it started I could put it in gear and stall the engine out.

    What I wasn't expecting is the engine to run away. I couldn't get the truck into gear easily once that happened. I finally jammed it into reverse and instead of stalling it did a major wheel stand. I pressed as hard as I could on the brakes and it finally stalled out. There was a huge cloud of white (diesel) and black (tires) smoke.

    It ran like crap too.

    I'm on the hunt for a good pump now.

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