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Thread: Stock master cylinder

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ec4fish View Post
    One of the first things I found out about my 725, was that the brake lines and cylinders were shot. After reading a bunch of posts from this forum, I decided to go with a dual master. It was mentioned on here, from Napa. Works great. I like the idea of having two separate systems, just Incase one fails.
    No argument with that.

    My truck had no brakes. But I just replaced everything, and I mean everything. Lines, rubber hoses, wheel cylinders, master cylinder (Well, maybe not the brass junction ). All new stuff and no trouble shooting to do.

  2. #12

    Default Which MC?

    Ec4fish or anyone?

    I bought the Classic Tube lines last month, and getting ready to replace everything.

    Which dual MC part number did you guys have luck with? I have seen several referenced in different threads, but wondered if there is one that sort of has come out on top as the 'best' of the options available. Thanks fellas. RB

  3. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoSpringsRob View Post
    Ec4fish or anyone?

    I bought the Classic Tube lines last month, and getting ready to replace everything.

    Which dual MC part number did you guys have luck with? I have seen several referenced in different threads, but wondered if there is one that sort of has come out on top as the 'best' of the options available. Thanks fellas. RB
    Don't know about "best", but I'm using the NAPA 10-1371 and it works great.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
    Don't know about "best", but I'm using the NAPA 10-1371 and it works great.
    Did you have to specify four wheel drums or something when you bought the MC to ensure that the pressure from each cylinder was correct?

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoSpringsRob View Post
    Ec4fish or anyone?

    I bought the Classic Tube lines last month, and getting ready to replace everything.

    Which dual MC part number did you guys have luck with? I have seen several referenced in different threads, but wondered if there is one that sort of has come out on top as the 'best' of the options available. Thanks fellas. RB
    I used a Dorman 56193
    It is a direct fit with no modifications to install it to the pedal.
    It has a 1" bore, and was used in 1960's early 70's AMC and Jeep vehicles with drum brakes front and rear.
    The 1" bore reduces pedal pressure, and stops my truck well.
    The line fittings are on the inside though.

  6. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jeepdan View Post
    I used a Dorman 56193
    It is a direct fit with no modifications to install it to the pedal.
    It has a 1" bore, and was used in 1960's early 70's AMC and Jeep vehicles with drum brakes front and rear.
    The 1" bore reduces pedal pressure, and stops my truck well.
    The line fittings are on the inside though.
    Done! $51, Amazon. Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

  7. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoSpringsRob View Post
    Did you have to specify four wheel drums or something when you bought the MC to ensure that the pressure from each cylinder was correct?
    No-- I think that was all worked out by the enterprising individual who came up with this mod. The parts guy did have to do a little digging for that number though; it seems it's no longer a NAPA number, but maybe Dorman, IIRC.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Just a note on the vent of the original master cylinder...

    If you dont have a fording valve AND you are not planning to ford deep water then I would cap off that hose connection or even get a non ported cap for the master and run that...the civvy trucks of the same era as the M715 use the same master and have the undrilled cap...well there is the tiny vent hole on the side but not the big opening on top we have.
    The reason is simple...brake fluid absorbs water like a sponge. the bigger the opening there is to the atmosphere, the more it will take in and the sooner you need to flush the entire brake system with clean fluid OR the sooner the master will go bad from the water in the brake fluid contamination that makes a gritty mud/sludge that will ruin the master.
    When you use the brakes and they get hot, the fluid gets hot and expands...after you park, it cools and contracts. You must have some vent on the master to allow for these changes in volume. The system WILL take in some moisture due to this no matter how small the vent due to outside air having moisture in it.
    When the truck sits with a tiny hole for a vent, not much interaction with atmosphere...not much happens over time...when it sits with the big stock vent hole M715's have, it has a lot more ability to absorb humidity...a lot more.

    If you dont need it to ford on a regular basis, plugging it off is a great idea to me.
    You do still need to flush the brake system periodically...but not as often for sure.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

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