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Thread: 7 Round H4 Headlight Conversion

  1. #1

    Default 7 Round H4 Headlight Conversion

    Xenon Conversion Kits-Anyone ever run one of these? I've converted the whole truck to 12volt-thinking about using a conversion kit in place of the old sealed beams. Kits seem to range between 50 buck to hundreds of bucks. Looking for opinions--recomendations or ones to steer clear of. From what I understand they dont loose light over time like sealed beams-can provide a greater amount of light--lower electric draw and of course you just replace the Hal base instead of the whole light.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

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    Hella makes a lens and bulb setup in 12 and 24 volt that works well...I run the 24 volt versions and they are great! Heres a post I made back in 98 after putting them in:

    I live in northern Wisconsin, where the forests and deer rule and people are in the minority. When it gets dark here the Milky Way stands out across the entire sky. That means it's dark. The stock headlights are non-halogen and even then are somewhat weaker than regular civilian headlights that are non-halogen. A call to GE, original headlight maker, found 11,000 candlepower on our lights and normal civilian headlights in non-halogen to be 13,000-15,000 cp. I, as usual, wanted more. One year at the Oshkosh Airshow, the largest civilian airshow in the world, I met a Hella dealer. I told him what I had and that I would like to get Halogens that were 24 volt and round for a 2 headlight setup. He pulled out some lights and proceeded to blind me in a second or two. The lights are great, they light up the road and both ditches on low beam but do not blind oncoming drivers as the only put light out through the bottom of the lens on low beam. This means when adjusted there is a line, quite a ways out, where your lights stop. So when your following someone, you don't shine lights in their rear view mirror until you are VERY close, but they shine as far or farther than car halogens and staying down on the road this way, Hella says, makes them like a fog/driving light. On high beam you can light up the world!!!! These babies are unreal on high, lighting reflectors at a mile and a half plus. They are also very wide on high to cover both ditches and some room beyond that. They use a seperate bulb from the housing and the bulb is available in 12 or 24 volt. I highly recommend them as primary headlights for off road as they cover the area you're in and show off the sides in case you need to turn to avoid something. To hook them up, I simply cut the wires going to the stock headlight far enough back so they could be spliced back on if needed or wanted by me or someone else. Hella sells a $5 connector that plugs on the back of the bulb and has holes for your wires to go in, where they are held by a spring loaded button. No problem to hook up and never come loose. They fit the stock hole and trim ring perfectly. They have a pretty flat lens on them so in winter, snow/ice doesn't want to stick. They also are hot, if you hold your hand in front of it a few inches away and someone turns them on, your hand will know the instant they do. They never have had ice build up, but are not so hot as to burn you. The housing and bulbs with the connectors was around $125, 2 years ago, and then you only need bulbs for about $20 instead of the hole deal again. In 12 volt the bulbs are $12 I think.
    The housing part number is 79562 and the 24 volt bulb is number 64196. They are rated at 70 watts low beam and 75 watts high. It seems like daylight in front of you compared to a flashlight with batteries that are going weak, which is how the stock lights look in comparison. Now if I can only wire up those 250W aircraft landing lights to a light
    bar.......

  3. #3

    Default

    Jon

    This what you have then??

    http://www.rallylights.com/hella/7in.asp

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    The light housing/lens looks exact:

    HL79562 7" Round ECE H4 Headlamps w/o bulb, each $31.97

    though I dont see the bulbs I have...but you can use a wider variety in 12 volt...you will like them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

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    Same basic write up by somebody else so you don't think this is a Zone conspiracy or anything.

    http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/headlights.htm

    After you read about the lights, look over the rest of his sight. Tremendous amount of information.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  6. #6

    Default

    here is a site w alot of info on headlights although it was posted in 04 www.endosquid.com/audi/audinfo_lightFAQ.htm
    68 M-715 MVPA #2710

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    Hella makes a lens and bulb setup in 12 and 24 volt that works well...I run the 24 volt versions and they are great!
    Jon, are these the headlights you had in your truck when the cars passing you pulled back in behind you because they could see more from your high beams from behind you than they could with their own lights ahead of you?

    I'm looking for the 12V version for my CJ, actually. I guess the 60/55W are the ones I should get (H6024A; Two Lamps with Hella 60/55w H4 Bulbs)? For $75 or so, it seems to be a no-brainer.

    Also, according to the headlight FAQ GW posted, I'm legal to use E-code (European, not DOT, standard) headlights here in Washington state. Bonus!

    I'm tempted to go with the 100/55W (H6024B; Two Lamps with Hella 100/55w H4 Bulbs), for serious kick-@ss high-beams for like $8 more, but am I correct to be concerned about frying my stock wiring? However, since I'm redoing so much of my CJ now, I could upgrade the headlight circuit to safely handle something like this. Any thoughts?
    -- Tim Taylor


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    Winlock, WA
    Posts
    2,553

    Default

    Relays make a big difference if you have any questions about your lights.
    Turn your lights on and check the voltage in the wiring at the light and see how much the voltage has dropped!
    Using stock headlight circuits to only trigger relays takes all the load off of the stock components (that are usually not adequate for the old stock junk!), and lets the relays run the power with nice large wires. Your voltage will be true to the battery/alternator rather then a percentage of drop that only increases over time with the stock wiring setup.

    Man, E-code is legal there? Sweet!
    I am tempted to run the 24v ones on my deuce. Those headlights already work pretty good, but if these are THAT much better, WOW.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    I'll probably do the relay thing in the CJ. Why not, eh?!

    So would the 100/55W setup be the schizzle or what?!

    As for E-code being legal up here, that's what the FAQ stated. Oregon too. I have yet to confirm that though.
    -- Tim Taylor


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
    Posts
    1,490

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Binford View Post
    I'm tempted to go with the 100/55W (H6024B; Two Lamps with Hella 100/55w H4 Bulbs), for serious kick-@ss high-beams for like $8 more, but am I correct to be concerned about frying my stock wiring? However, since I'm redoing so much of my CJ now, I could upgrade the headlight circuit to safely handle something like this. Any thoughts?

    I use this set up in my off-road Jeep. 55w for roads back and forth, but when you kick in the 100w while off-road, it makes a huge difference. Technically 100w is ileagal for road use, but i don't know any officer who's going to make you pull your lights to show them the watt ratings. Plus no one should really see your high beams while on the road anyway. I did use the relay harness from Painless Wiring to keep it from melting down. Works great and I have been using them since 97' without a problem. The other nice thing is that a replacement bulb is easy to store in the glovebox in case one goes out while out on the trail, even though I'm still on the originals in mine.

    Dave
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
    1968 M51 Inflatable Chemical Shelter System http://www.davidallenracing.com/M51.htm
    1953 Dodge M37 weapons carrier http://www.davidallenracing.com/M37.htm
    Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

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