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Thread: Tune up plug wire

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Springdale, Arkansas
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    Default Tune up plug wire

    I have seen discussion here about the need for a civilian wire and plug for the #1 cyl to do a tune up with.
    I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to make one, what plug/wire is required and how to set it all up.
    Or...does anyone have one already made up that they don't need anymore? If it's complicated, maybe a picture would help too. "lectric stuff ain't my real forte' ".
    Thanks in advance, I'll probably try to fire the engine next week. Makin' progress....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
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    All you really need to do is get an old civilian spark plug wire and cut off the ends. Strip the insulation off both ends back a half inch or so. Then, unscrew the military wire from either the plug or cap end. Fold the core of the civy wire back and stick it in the gap. Hook your timing light to the civy wire and your power leads to a 12V source and time away.

    Or, you could by the military adaptor set for around $50 on E-bay. I can't get e-bay at work and I now can't post pictures from work either, so no links and no pictures of my adaptor set. Sorry.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

    Default

    If you feel up to there is a writeup in the manuals section. Barrman's solution sounds easier.

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=mil_wire_convert
    Live like you will die tomorrow. Dream like you will live forever!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
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    Default

    Thanks Barrman, that does sound pretty simple. So basically I just sorta' splice in (temporarily) a length of civvy wire so the timing light can get a reading?

    I looked at the writeup Warthog, that looks kinda complicated, doable but tedious. Thanks for posting it, I think I get the concept.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
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    Here is the military adaptor set. Alternator, generator, regulator, tach and timing light adaptors:
    [IMG][/IMG]

    This is the proper spark plug wire timing light adaptor:
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  6. #6
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    Springdale, Arkansas
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    HOLY CATS!!!! I've tracked rotor systems with less equipment! Seriously.
    Wow, that's a cool kit to have, bet you don't find one of those under every rock.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Giddings, Texas
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    Default

    $45.00 on E-Bay a year ago. Memphis sells brand new kits for a little less than $100.00.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tacoma, Washington
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    105

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    In the days of the ancients distributor timing was set by using a vacuum gage! Anyone out there old enough to remember how it was done??

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Universal City, Texas
    Posts
    109

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarbush 8 View Post
    In the days of the ancients distributor timing was set by using a vacuum gage! Anyone out there old enough to remember how it was done??
    I'd like to hear the answer for that. That's a new one on me.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Plug a vacuum gauge into a non ported vacuum source. With the engine warmed up and the vacuum advance disconnected. Turn the distributor until you reach a peak vacuum. That is in theory the most efficient setting for your engine. Drive it and see if it pings. Check it with a light as well to see what numbers you are at.

    Most people get pinging at the best vacuum setting. So the rule of thumb is to get best and the back off 1" hg.

    Use the same process for setting the idle mixture screw.

    The 230 is odd in that it doesn't have a ready to plug in vacuum source, has no vacuum advance on the stock distributor and with its low compression, rarely if ever pings. You will find that adjusting the valve lash will make a big performance difference with the 230 since they are almost never set correctly when you get the truck.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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