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  #21  
Old April 18th, 2020, 03:49 PM
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Yeah...what he said!!!!

Even way out in Idaho, the virus found you...surprised as much as me and the truck get around, I havent found it yet...
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  #22  
Old April 18th, 2020, 11:52 PM
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I am eyeballing the front end. Removing the stock axle and cutting off spring hangers etc. I will level the frame, land the front end on new mounts, then remove all front sheetmetal and get after the firewall replacement. Looks pretty easy after my last restoration. Sheet metal work is enjoyable to me.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; May 20th, 2020 at 09:40 AM.
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  #23  
Old April 19th, 2020, 06:31 AM
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Glad to hear you guys are doing better.
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  #24  
Old April 20th, 2020, 08:11 AM
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Thanks Mikel.
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  #25  
Old April 24th, 2020, 08:54 AM
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Well I have some interesting feedback on putting a Chevy dana 60 in a M715 and the problems that arise. Like obliterating the alignment specs. At least using the original spring pads. The differences in a chevy frame and the M715 frame and why these problems arise. I hope to post later today if I get some time.
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  #26  
Old April 25th, 2020, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps View Post
Well I have some interesting feedback on putting a Chevy dana 60 in a M715 and the problems that arise. Like obliterating the alignment specs. At least using the original spring pads. The differences in a chevy frame and the M715 frame and why these problems arise. I hope to post later today if I get some time.
Modifying a Chevy D60 to fit spring under is not a big deal, certainly not to someone with your talents. It's been done here many times. The biggest problem -to me- is the width (69.XX" vs 73" of the original axles). In my truck, I made 2" steel spacers so I could fit HMMWV rims keeping the original spacing, and used a D60HD from a 70s motorhome (73" wide) in the rear.
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  #27  
Old April 25th, 2020, 11:24 AM
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I just lost a huge post... Ugh.

Ok so I have found issues with putting one of these axles under a M715. Nothing that can't be worked with, but important stuff to keep in mind.

First was a major degrease job. Absolutely my favorite activity.



Then getting out the measurement stuff. I used a digital protractor and an alignment gauge to try and see how I needed to land the axle and keep good driving characteristic's. The alignment gauge attaches to the spindle. First I set the center at ride height. About 18 inches off the ground center of spindle bore while straight ahead. Verified the frame was level with a short bubble level. Here is where things went off some. Keeping a 6 degree caster (stock is 8) I found the spring pad sits at perfect level at zero degrees. And the chevy spring I was considering sat way wrong being low in the front. I used some flat metal bar cut to chevys 47 inch length. Please see below.



This drove the rear of the mock spring into the frame and the front was so low, well too low. OK why? If you run a string line down a chevy frame pulling from the transmission crossmember where the center frame section is level you will find the front frame horn is only about one inch above the center section. I had a 79 chevy plow truck here to discover this. All chevys on that vintage including the 1 tons use the same spring. A very flat spring available with 2-3 or 4 leaves. And 47 inches long.
Pull the same measurement on a m715 frame and you will find the front frame horn at the bumper mount is 5 inches above the same reference point midway down the frame compared to a chevy frame. No wonder the stock K30 set up won't work well. By the way, I found the passenger side of my M715 frame had the spring mounts welded on a full 1/4 inch forward from the other side. Both front and rear. Someone must have been in a hurry....

So now I see why I keep reading about people cutting and rotating knuckles. I am not that motivated anymore. So keeping my 6 degrees and knowing the spring pad should be flat and horizontal, I could consistently return to my 6 degrees caster by setting a protractor on the spring pad. I dug out some steel 8 degree shims. I never use aluminum as they pound out and deform making everything loose. I found that leaving the axle in it's correct position and tilting the spring up 4 degrees puts the spring eyes in a workable location for putting mounts on. Now I am not fond of a shim in front. But I am not rotating knuckles. If everything stays put it will be fine. This also keeps the axle pinion pointed at the transfer case so the original style front driveline with a double cardan can be used.
With an 8 degree shim. To much and 4 is ideal and on order. I had to raise the truck to get it out of the way to find all this out.




From the front where the greatest drop used to be. I am keeping the shackles up front verses the chevy rear hanging shackles. For a couple reasons.
The little piece of tape in the center is the exact center of the entire axle. Measured between the kingpin zerk fittings, the center is the corner edge of the differential casting at the drivers side tube.




About 6.5 but the axle was off a tad. It moved a lot while messing around under there. Thanks Barrman for the 6 degree recommendation. That is my target.



These are the springs that just arrived. A 2 inch lift from superlift for a 88 K30 one ton. If you get 87 and back you have a small rear bushing at 1.130 on the rear and a 1.5 front bushing. 1988 has both front and rear at the same size at 1.130. I elected to have the same size and figured less give or flex in a smaller bushing. Less wander with wear. So 2 inches of lift and if I have the front high by a little I can easily add a short block in the rear. Not to easy if the front is low since the rear axle is as low as it can be with a shackle above and no blocks in anymore. I will probably have to adjust the ride height later.
The spring, bought at summit the part number is 1-232-6 232 =2 inch 234=4 inch etc. These will make the rig a roller again.
They were only 87 bucks each compared to double the costs for several other brands. I may need to change this depending on droop and how they load out with the motor in etc. I plan on a custom bumper and a 12K winch. So these will get me started. Later when I know that I have found the springs I need, I will separate them and put slip plate #1 between each leaf. it will change the ride substantially for the better.




I am sure all this has been covered before. I thought I would post up as it was not a simple slam dunk as I assumed. I will add that putting the new spring on and no shim which put the pinion nearly flat like a dana 44 put the caster at 12 to 14 degrees. Off the ability of the gauge to read it. And probably horrible road manners.

Well I will hit post and hope I got it right with PB's changes.

Fixed it...

I will get spring hangers ordered and hopefully move forward.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; April 25th, 2020 at 08:08 PM.
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  #28  
Old April 28th, 2020, 09:09 PM
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Well I have removed the 4 plus inch body lift on the cab and front end. I put some 7/8 biscuits on it for now. I did my best to square up the cab on the frame and using a plumb bob and one eye closed tried to locate the right location for the front axle tube center in relation to the wheel well.. That and measuring the frame. I have marked it. I got the spring bushings in and they are ridiculously wide at 3 3/4. I wanted to wait on spring hangers till I knew my width. Fortunately I stuck a bushing over a metal sleeve and chucked it in a small lathe and cleanly "removed" a bit of the excess shoulder. So keeping about 1/4 inch of shoulder on the bushing, I ordered 3 inch wide hangers and shackle mounts from Ruff Stuff. Perfect because if I ever change leaf springs to the correct 1 ton 2 3/4 wide spring and correct bushings, it will need a 3 inch hanger. Superlift's springs are 2.5 wide. I will post a picture of the bushings later. I am not sure why they would make them with such a huge shoulder. America... bigger is better right? I also bought 4 good sized casters today. For a good sized dolly to put the cab on. Time to cut off original spring hangers. May the sparks fly.
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  #29  
Old April 28th, 2020, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel View Post
Modifying a Chevy D60 to fit spring under is not a big deal, certainly not to someone with your talents. It's been done here many times. The biggest problem -to me- is the width (69.XX" vs 73" of the original axles). In my truck, I made 2" steel spacers so I could fit HMMWV rims keeping the original spacing, and used a D60HD from a 70s motorhome (73" wide) in the rear.

The rear Dodge 70 was about 69 or 70 wide. It seems to fit really well with bed and spring clearance. I have yet to put the bearing hubs and wheels on the front. I guess we will see. It will be spring over at least for now. So far it looks pretty good. My fingers are crossed.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; April 28th, 2020 at 09:21 PM.
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  #30  
Old May 5th, 2020, 09:22 AM
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Well doing a lot of parts cleaning with the bead blaster. I hope to put some paint on in a day or so. I did not see a free section in the classifieds. I have front and rear stock axles to get rid of. If anyone wants them, they are free. I am 1.5 hours north of Spokane Washington.

I also have the wheels that were on the truck. Stock centers, looks like professionally modified with a nicely welded spacer eliminating the lock ring and making a regular rim, capable of a wider bigger tire. I have not dismounted the tires to see just how wide they are. They represent a PITA to me so free if I don't have to dismount and ship.

My ruff stuff box arrives tomorrow. I hope to land the dana 60 and make it a roller again. The front mounts are off, I need to cut the rears off and clean up the frame.
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