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  #21  
Old December 3rd, 2008, 10:16 PM
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Awe cmon'

I thought everybody knew if you put 5 turns in em' they'll hold your favorite beverage can just right.

Thanks Binny, Jay
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  #22  
Old December 4th, 2008, 07:12 AM
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MY EYES! You have chrome in a MV. What kind of person are you?

Looks really good by the way.
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  #23  
Old December 4th, 2008, 03:21 PM
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Should have Grave Digger'd it, now the election is over you could have been on the National news..."Crazy California man goes nuts and drives Army Truck over neighbors car". Missed your 15 minutes of fame....
Nice job on the conversion.
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  #24  
Old December 8th, 2008, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Dog View Post
I wanted to send a "THANK YOU" to Wart Hog for putting together this HOW TO back in June...................
Well, the much neglected brake system is getting an overhaul and in doing so out with the master cylinder. I'll be ordering the wheel cylinders from your other post too! Thanks again Wart Hog, You are the Man!

Thank you for the complement. However I can't take credit. I just took the infomation that many others before me had posted and added a few pictures. The thanks should go to the fellow members of this wonderful site.

Wart Hog

P.S. I like the extra turns in the green brake line....LOL
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  #25  
Old December 11th, 2008, 06:21 AM
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I can now vouch that this is a worthwhile upgrade. Not to long ago, I noticed my brake lights weren't working. Long story short, when I popped the mc cover the reservoir for the front brakes was dry. So the lights weren't lighting up because no fluid was getting to the brake light switch at the t-fitting. I haven't been able to drive my truck too often since summer because I'm at college and we never noticed any obvious leaks since it's parked in the grass. However, driving around the farm and little short trips, I never had any problems stopping, although thinking back now it was getting easier to lock up the rear tires. Now I've learned my lesson and will check the brake fluid more often. My point is, if I still had the original mc I would have no brakes instead of just half of my brakes.
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  #26  
Old December 11th, 2008, 06:56 AM
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Just this morning I walked into my shop and saw a puddle underneath Pistolnut's M715. The only fluid in the entire truck right now is brake fluid, so I knew what it was. We just discovered that the line from the Mc to the rest of the system seeping fluid. The brakes have been full of fluid and working perfectly for about a year now. The truck just hasn't been above the speed 4 teenagers can push it since then. We had to push it yesterday so a light bulb above it could be changed. I guess my hand applied enough pressure to overload a weak spot in the line.

The point here is that a single line failure leaves the stock brakes totally useless. Check yours out.
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  #27  
Old June 16th, 2010, 04:51 PM
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So, today I went and bled all four corners.

As always, I used my pressure bleeder, with ~8 PSI pressure. Bled all 4 corners went up to check pedal pressure and notices a BIG pool of brake fluid on the cab floor.

Couple questions.
1) I assume this means the master is shot and has to be replaced or rebuilt. Is that correct? Is there some other way that brake fluid could have gotten into the cab?

2) this was a new cylinder. Zero miles, though I did install it last year. I have no clue where the NAPA recipt is. Should I even try to take it back, or should I just pony up for a new one?
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  #28  
Old June 17th, 2010, 08:31 AM
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Last fall at the Texas FE. We installed a brand new in the box master on a maintenance truck Kwai owns. We also did all new wheel cylinders and such. We put the pressure bleeder on and were getting a little flow at the passenger rear wheel cylinder. Not much flow, so we upped the pressure. About this time is when we noticed DOT 5 was leaking out of the cab. There was a nice puddle of BFS inside the cab actually.

Turns out the new in the plastic wrapper master didn't have a piston installed. The dust cap could only hold the fluid back so long. None of us thought to look for a piston in the master before we installed it.

While I doubt that is your problem, it could be. More than likely your secondary seal on the piston has dirt or crud on it. Pull the master, pull the piston, clean everything, inspect everything and if all looks ok, put it back together. Starting with a new part, you probably just got a little bit of junk in there and no damage.

I would recommend BFS or DOT 5 which is the same thing. Less rust to everything.
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  #29  
Old June 17th, 2010, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Turns out the new in the plastic wrapper master didn't have a piston installed. The dust cap could only hold the fluid back so long. None of us thought to look for a piston in the master before we installed it.
That was a "Doh"! moment.
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  #30  
Old June 17th, 2010, 11:35 AM
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Is it new or reman? We quit using remanned m/c entirely due to high failure/poor quality issues.
One day we pressure tested 12 units from 3 suppliers. NONE of them would supply the 900/600 minimum required pressures.
First test on a brand new AC/Delco unit provide the required psi and then some. I think it tested 1100/800.
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