24v to 12v converter

[chicklin]

What do you guys think about this device?

http://www.sourcingmap.com/car-power...2v-p-9351.html

30A output and it's cheap. See any problems with trying this out?

[amphi]

Crazy cheap price – must be for real because these vendors also have the same one:

http://topcarsmart.com/index.php?pag...chk=1&Itemid=1

http://www.uxcell.com/car-power-supp...2v-p-9392.html

http://blubaytrading.com/index.php?p...hk=1&Itemid=11

Your link is PayPal Verified so it should be a safe purchase with a credit card.

At this price you could parallel two for 60 amps.

[randyscycle]

I'm curious if they are regulated at all? I bought a 10Amp 24-12 converter and it is regulated at 13.8V output. It is also twice the size of that one because of the heat sink it is made of.

Most of the larger Amp output ones I have seen are much larger than my 10Amp one. Cheap enough though. Might be worth a try to see.

[chicklin]

At this price you could parallel two for 60 amps.

Well, I put one on order, so I'll test it out to see how it does. If I wanted to run them in parallel, how would I wire that up? Just run both power leads to my junction block? Would 30A be enough to run a blower motor on a heater?

[rboltz]

Well, I put one on order, so I'll test it out to see how it does. If I wanted to run them in parallel, how would I wire that up? Just run both power leads to my junction block? Would 30A be enough to run a blower motor on a heater?

Regulated supplies do not do well on inductive loads like heater motors. They are designed for electronics. Best to use a resistor for inductive loads. Also, putting them in parallel is not a good idea. If they are not perfectly "matched" the weaker one will burn up pretty fast.

See info here http://www.powerstream.com/dc1.htm

Quote from manufacturer;
These are also known as 24 volt voltage reducers, and voltage regulators. These DC/DC voltage reducing converters are suitable for running electronics, such as radios, CD players, computers, and CB radios. They are NOT usually suitable for headlights, motors, solenoids, or other electromechanical devices unless they are protected from inductive kickback and motor noise, and the current is rated for the inrush, stall, or locked rotor current of the load.

[Binford]

There was a thread on this a while back:

12v component in 24v truck

I ended up getting this one: http://shop.talleycom.com/store/prod...dtl_pn=SLXSDC5

It's just a little 5-amp unit, enough to run my CB and a GPS. Works like a charm! Thanks again for the lead, brute!

Mine was waaay more expensive for waaay fewer amps. I'd question that $10 unit's quality and/or reliability. But then again, for $10...what if it works just fine for your needs?!

[randyscycle]

I agree, that for the price it is certainly worth a shot.

I think about anything would work for low-amp loads, but for a heater blower or the like, I'd go with something pretty hefty. I only use mine to run my pyrometer and my GPS and that is it. Neither draw anywhere near the 10Amp output of my converter.

[chicklin]

Well, I think I will stick to 24v for the heater due to the higher load, but I think I will create a 12v fuse block for future use such as electronic ignition, EFI, auxiliary lights, etc.

It would be nice to have a 12v option without hacking the truck too much.

[amphi]

Also, putting them in parallel is not a good idea. If they are not perfectly "matched" the weaker one will burn up pretty fast.

Oops! Guess putting two in parallel was a bad idea. Sorry!!

There was a thread on this a while back:

And yet another thread, just a few weeks ago, where the blower motor was discussed. This is where some of us suggested a resistor for the blower motor. This thread also includes links to heavy-duty, properly sized, inexpensive resistors on eBay:

Where to pull 24v power



I would use one of these to run a 12v blower motor on 24v.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Power-Resistor-A...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Power-Resistor-A...QQcmdZViewItem


Thanks for the link and input rboltz

[Binford]

And there are also threads on this as well, but it hasn't been discussed here yet: You could stick in one more battery and a separate 12V alternator to run it and pull that power to run any and all 12V accessories. And never have to worry about it again....