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  #101  
Old November 1st, 2018, 02:36 PM
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Alright, some more progress has been made on the 205. I got it back from cleaning yesterday and it came out really nice! Next is to get the input bore machined out for the new input shaft and to add a bunch of parts. I ordered a driveline brake, 1410 u-joint yokes and flanges, gasket kit, and everything else needed to make this thing work. It should all be showing up in the next week or so. In the meantime, Im planning on pulling the powertrain out of the 715 this weekend. If all goes to plan, that will open me up to clean and paint the frame and suspension, adapt in power steering, a brake booster, and some other odds n ends before swapping in the V10. I'll have to travel for work soon but I'm still hoping that I can get the truck running and maybe driving by the springtime. here's hoping

the cleaned case


the two different input shafts. the old one was male 23 spline while the new one is female 29 spline.
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  #102  
Old November 4th, 2018, 12:46 PM
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Made some highly visible progress today. I had a buddy come over and we were able to pull out the old Tornado pretty easily. The hardest part might have been carefully removing the front clip. Especially since I don't really have a good place to store it now... oh well. I'll start to clean up the underside later. I'm committed now.







my sick new lawn ornament!


I honestly don't think the suspension moved at all when we removed the engine... hopefully the +800lb V10 will make it move.
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  #103  
Old November 5th, 2018, 03:39 PM
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LOL, if you drop the V10 from the ceiling it'll move a little.
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  #104  
Old November 5th, 2018, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
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LOL, if you drop the V10 from the ceiling it'll move a little.
yeah... that ought to do something!
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  #105  
Old November 6th, 2018, 07:44 AM
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I don't remember what a Ford 390 weighs but when I put mine in my truck this summer the springs barely twitched when I put the engine in.

Summer before last I hauled 3000 lbs of gravel for a french drain I was putting in. When the loader dropped the gravel in my truck it came down a little bit.. Inch? Inch and a half maybe? Rode GREAT!
But the funny thing is... when I had the truck on the lift replacing brakes and carrier bearings in the rear, I noticed the rear brake lines were pinched a little the bump stops on the frame had hit them. HOW?

Some time in the past somebody got airborne in that truck and had a hard landing. Or a C130 landed on it or something...
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  #106  
Old November 14th, 2018, 05:21 PM
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More tcase progress! I'm almost done putting it back together. I just need the driveline brake instructions from NWFab. I can probably guess how it goes together but I'd rather have the instructions to be safe. The clutch forks were a pain to pin back onto the shift rails. But they're both on and cursory testing has them shifting correctly. I did realize that I forgot to clean the front bearing retainer and the rear output... oops. They'll go back on dirty. They're not too bad so whatever.

New driveline brake + new shims




I'm making quite the mess on my workbench




the rear output. It has a speedo gear but I have a feeling that it won't be anywhere close to accurate with the tires and final drive ratio


the new bearing retainer and brake flange
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  #107  
Old November 17th, 2018, 04:31 PM
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Finished the Tcase today! It went back together fairly easily. Except for the part where I had it together and realized that I forgot to put the needle bearings back into the rear output shaft... oops. The other problem that I've run into is the rear output flange isn't big enough for a 1410 ujoint like I was planning to use. The manufacturer listed the flange as: 1300/1400 series ujoint. I figured it would fit, apparently not (the bolt holes are a 4.25" pattern as opposed to 4.75" for a 1410). I've reached out to them and hopefully they have a larger flange. I also made some progress on the frame. I removed the rear bumper bits, shocks, engine mounts, etc. I need to degrease the underside of the cab and the axles, then I'll sand the frame and it will be ready for paint. I might not get to that until Monday or later. Grinding off the engine mount rivets takes a surprising amount of energy and I'm beat! haha.

All together! And everything is shifting like it should! I think it came out pretty nice


the driveline brake. I didn't want to put the caliper on the top but it was have clearance issues everywhere else. Hopefully it clears the underside of the cab.


Where the motor mounts used to be. I had to cut them away, grind off the weld material, then grind away the rivets to get the inboard piece off.


All cleaned up


Rear bumper bits all gone
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  #108  
Old November 18th, 2018, 07:48 AM
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Looking like progress! Thanks for the pics. Great build.
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  #109  
Old November 18th, 2018, 07:29 PM
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After getting the engine and trans back in my truck, I pulled the front springs and removed the first and third leaves then put new center bolts in and re-installed them. They still didn't flex much when the weight of the truck sat down on them....

I built my own engine mounts but I'm looking at cutting them out and welding in a Ford cross member to sit the engine in. That will tie the frame rails together better and support the front 12K lb winch better when it is under a load.

Last edited by TXfirefighter; November 18th, 2018 at 07:32 PM. Reason: adding comments
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  #110  
Old November 19th, 2018, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXfirefighter View Post
After getting the engine and trans back in my truck, I pulled the front springs and removed the first and third leaves then put new center bolts in and re-installed them. They still didn't flex much when the weight of the truck sat down on them....

I built my own engine mounts but I'm looking at cutting them out and welding in a Ford cross member to sit the engine in. That will tie the frame rails together better and support the front 12K lb winch better when it is under a load.
How was changing out the springs? I was thinking about doing that but wasn't sure about the spring straps and through bolts. Is it good to just front or would it be better to do all 4 corners? I may have to make a crossmember as well. Not sure where I'd put one though
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