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  #51  
Old March 19th, 2017, 08:35 AM
Nailhead Nailhead is offline
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Originally Posted by Don Cavey View Post
Agree, kerosene will not dissolve the varnish. Berkebile Oil 2 + 2 Gum Cutter works well.
Don, that sounds suspiciously like a recipe that would call for "eye of newt".
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  #52  
Old March 19th, 2017, 11:40 AM
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Over the years, I have found some strange combinations. As I mentioned, this stuff has worked well for me. I will admit that the formula that they had in the 70s did a better job but I guess the EPA got into their formula as with everything else THAT WORKED!

2+2 seemed to work better than Gumout or those other brands of choke and carburetor cleaner. None work as good as they did 40 years ago.



When I got finished, that which the 2+2 didn't clean off was also removed by Fantastik or Formula 409. Seems that some stuff is petro base and some is water base. Gotta use the right stuff...
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  #53  
Old March 19th, 2017, 11:46 AM
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the kerosene and a toothbrush seem to be working. There is some discoloration but all of the bits and flakes are coming off no problem
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  #54  
Old March 23rd, 2017, 06:00 AM
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hey all, just a quick update. I rebuilt the carb and reinstalled it on the truck. after tweaking the idle screw a bit, she's running well! I can barely believe a 50year old truck, that has sat for who knows how long, can drive on its own! I drove it around the yard and down the dirt road behind my house and it seems to be working. If I can get the fuel tank reinstalled, fix the DS taillight, and replace the brake t-fitting, it should be street legal in a few weeks! And just in time for warm weather here in Michigan.
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  #55  
Old March 24th, 2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
hey all, just a quick update. I rebuilt the carb and reinstalled it on the truck. after tweaking the idle screw a bit, she's running well! I can barely believe a 50year old truck, that has sat for who knows how long, can drive on its own! I drove it around the yard and down the dirt road behind my house and it seems to be working. If I can get the fuel tank reinstalled, fix the DS taillight, and replace the brake t-fitting, it should be street legal in a few weeks! And just in time for warm weather here in Michigan.
We installed the engine in mine after it been sitting for who knows how long in various fields & meadows, and it started like it had been shut down the previous day. I just stood there shaking my head, not knowing what to say.

I had to buy a six-pack of bolts for the fuel tank straps, so I have spares if you need them.
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  #56  
Old April 1st, 2017, 09:11 AM
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hey all, So I'm still struggling a bit with carb issues. After driving around for a bit, it starts to not want to idle. I've adjusted the idle screw again after it gets warm but the old "hand over the intake at full throttle" trick seems to help it. Idle resumes a more normal speed after. I assume that there's just a bunch of little bits of crap that will flush out over the next long while. The other issues are: some weird smoke that shows up after driving for a few minutes and then is gone a minute later. It doesn't seem to have any smell and it fills the cab but I can't find a leak externally. It almost seems like it's coming from behind the dash. Lastly, I've noticed that the oil pump is leaking pretty badly. It looks like everyone just makes a new one. Has anyone ever used silicone instead of gasket material? thanks for the help! hopefully she starts to play a little nicer.
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  #57  
Old April 1st, 2017, 02:09 PM
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These carburetors are not very complicated. But they do need to be cleaned thoroughly with a good cleaner that will remove/dissolve any and all varnish, gum... whatever. You don't really need one of those dunk tanks for it but using the stuff pictured above and a good brush (with everything completely disassembled) will usually do the trick. The main jet needs to come out and of course, compressed air blasting generously in every orifice will blow the stuff out. If it will only run after choking it, the engine is running lean; not getting enough gas.

Also, if you have the 24Volt OEM "Ignitor" (actually a distributor with the coil inside), Make sure you don't have one of those Chinese chrome plated coils. They are rubbish.

Please let us know...
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  #58  
Old April 1st, 2017, 02:13 PM
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One more thing that may be the culprit. If you have an original gas tank, it is most likely full of rust. If you change the filter, it will run for a while and then clog up again. Does your carburetor look like this when you take the bowl cover off?



If it does, you still have a rust problem in the fuel system.
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  #59  
Old April 1st, 2017, 07:18 PM
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Take your fuel tank to a radiator shop and have them hot tank it. As mentioned above. That will help a lot.

I was running 3 filters and had to clean my needle and seat about once a month until I had the tank cleaned.
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  #60  
Old April 2nd, 2017, 08:08 PM
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Also, you can't clean all the little bored holes in the carb with a brush. I use the berryman carb cleaner in a gallon bucket. pull the carb apart and soak the parts in the bucket for 15-20 min and rinse clean.

Fuel pump could also be a problem.

For my first test runs, i strap a five gallon can to the front bumper with the line going into the hard line on the driver's side of the engine. There is a 6" rubber line going from the frame rail to the hard line on the engine. I just break the line to put in the temp line from the 5 gal can. This ensures that I have clean gas going into the fuel pump.

You also want to make sure you set the float level correctly or you will have problems.

You should also check the idle needle valve. I have found a few corroded. The mil-spec carb kits include a replacement needle while the civvy kits don't.
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