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  #61  
Old April 4th, 2017, 12:43 PM
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Thanks for the help all. It seems to be dirty fuel. I replaced the filter with a pair of clear ones and it is working for now. The old filter. the gas was a deep rust brown and you couldn't see through it anymore. haha. I'm going to keep running the tank down and then I'll see how it's doing. I'll try the radiator shop cleaning route if it doesn't clear up.
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  #62  
Old April 5th, 2017, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
Thanks for the help all. It seems to be dirty fuel. I replaced the filter with a pair of clear ones and it is working for now. The old filter. the gas was a deep rust brown and you couldn't see through it anymore. haha. I'm going to keep running the tank down and then I'll see how it's doing. I'll try the radiator shop cleaning route if it doesn't clear up.
If the radiator shop option doesn't pan out (they're becoming somewhat uncommon these days), $150 buys you the lining kit I used on mine. It requires a weekend of work & drying time for the various steps of the process, but it's working great so far. http://www.kbs-coatings.com
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  #63  
Old April 26th, 2017, 07:02 PM
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Hey all, Just an update on the truck. So this past weekend I replaced the oil pump gaskets and put it all back together and it looks much better. That's one major oil leak down. To celebrate, we drove the truck to Woodward ave and drove it for the entire afternoon and evening. She did great for the first two hours then the fuel filters clogged from the rusty tank. This then caused the float in the carb to stick. Luckily, it was easily fixable and it didn't slow us down much. My friend that was tailing me informed me that my tail lights and brake lights were really hard to see, even when he was looking for them. So in the name of safety, I put some larger lights on. While I was at it, I also adjusted the parking brake and clutch. Everything is much better, but after the dirty fuel issues, I really want to get the tank cleaned. There's a local radiator shop that looks like they can do it. I sent out for a quote so hopefully it all works out. In the meantime, I put some seafoam in the tank to try to help it out.

oil pump


no 5 hour cruise is complete without a little roadside maintenance


new tail lights ready for paint


painted and installed


Much better!


Next up is to clean out the gas tank again, work on some seat covers, and try to figure out why the speedo, fuel, and temp gauges aren't working
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  #64  
Old April 27th, 2017, 04:01 PM
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Looks good
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  #65  
Old May 1st, 2017, 04:12 PM
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So, as usual with project cars, I've gotten slightly distracted and I've started on the interior of the truck. The goal is to Herculine the floor, remove the wasp nests I keep finding, repaint the heater box, replace the heater control cables, recover the seats, redo the door panels, replace the door seals, and whatever else I decide to go after while I'm at it. Maybe by the time I'm done, my new top will be ready!

Stripping out the interior


I swear, I've never seen so many wasp nests in a car. Or anywhere for that matter
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  #66  
Old May 3rd, 2017, 05:10 PM
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Well... unsurprisingly, after doing some surface prep and grinding I found rust. Frustratingly, there's more than I was hoping there would be. but it's still a far cry better than a 76 bug I worked on a while back. The difficult park is the rust has shown up in tight corners. As usual. My question for any of you that have read this far is this: How is the rear cab cross member welded on? Spot welds? I figure that I need to remove that to repair the pan at the back of the cab. Thanks for any info.

Driver's seat mount


Driver's footwell and cab corner


Passenger Footwell cab corner


The rear cross member in question


There's rust underneath starting with the batter cable tube hole and moving towards the nearest seat mount. I think that it would be best to replace the whole part.
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  #67  
Old May 4th, 2017, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
Well... unsurprisingly, after doing some surface prep and grinding I found rust. Frustratingly, there's more than I was hoping there would be. but it's still a far cry better than a 76 bug I worked on a while back. The difficult park is the rust has shown up in tight corners. As usual. My question for any of you that have read this far is this: How is the rear cab cross member welded on? Spot welds? I figure that I need to remove that to repair the pan at the back of the cab. Thanks for any info.

Driver's seat mount


Driver's footwell and cab corner


Passenger Footwell cab corner


The rear cross member in question


There's rust underneath starting with the batter cable tube hole and moving towards the nearest seat mount. I think that it would be best to replace the whole part.
Hi,
I had the same areas of rust at the front of the cab floor corners, both sides. It wasn't too bad to repair.
Look directly up under the cowling air box (top of firewall) to see if it is rusted out. Mine was pretty bad

At the rear, the hat channel is spot welded to the floor.
DO NOT remove the hat channel.
Best way to fix the rusted out floor under the hat channel (behind the driver's seat) would be to drill out the spot welds that fasten the channel to the bad area of the floor.
Then cut out the bad floor area, and patch in. Then weld in the drilled out holes in the hat channel flanges, effectively making new spot welds.
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  #68  
Old May 4th, 2017, 07:29 PM
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Hey Old Red Jeep-

I also had to replace a lot of my floor due to rust. My photos of the process are posted here:
http://www.angrym715.shutterfly.com
Maybe they can be of some reference for you.

As Jeepdan said, the rear crossmember is spot welded to the floor. I removed the crossmember to rebuild the floor but before doing so I welded in some bracing to keep the body straight.
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  #69  
Old May 21st, 2017, 10:20 AM
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hey all, so I got the holes in the floor replaced and all patched up. It was time consuming but it's done. It's not the best, it's not the worst, but I think that it's pretty good for a first timer. I've decided to put off bedlining it until the end of the season. I just want to enjoy the thing. I also made a coolant overflow bottle out of an old canteen for kicks and giggles. I think it should work well enough.

rear floor


overflow bottle
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  #70  
Old May 21st, 2017, 11:21 AM
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Overflow bottle is very cool.
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