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Old February 11th, 2004, 07:50 PM
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Barrman Barrman is offline
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I had my tank out last weekend to clean out some of the crude that keeps clogging up my fuel filters and carb. While I had it apart I planned on switching out the sender units. I have an Auto Meter fuel gauge in my M715. I have always modified a GM type sender to fit the tank in the past. I can't on this one because of the depth of the tank. The stock unit is about 6" down with a float attached that is on a 8-10" arm. I can make the GM unit mount to the stock lid and bracket. I can also make the swing arm work. My problem is the wire. I have never messed with the wire that will be submerged in gasoline. I noticed that both the stock unit and the GM unit have bare wire at both ends. Can I solder the wire once I make it the right length, leave it bare and not blow myself up next time I turn of the ignition? Is soldering the wire and covering it somehow, heat shrink, tape, silicone, any better? I'm just looking for ideas. I left it alone and filled it full of fuel. It will be a few weeks before I run it empty enough and have the time to pull it back off. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old February 12th, 2004, 10:31 AM
the1968jeepthing the1968jeepthing is offline
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when made the fuel sender/pump for my tank i just threw one of those heat shrink butt connectors on the wire to make it longer. works fine. the way i see it if the electric pump can turn on and off with it all submerged in fuel and not blow up than the fuel sender should be fine. the variable resistor on the fuel sender is also exposed to fuel with no problems. the onley theing is if you are trying to make the wire longer, you may want to use left over wire from a different sender because its a special material that wont deteriorate in fuel (i think its kevlar or somthing) the insulation on a regular wire will deteriorate in fuel. i made the mistake once of useing a rubber line to connect from the fuel pump to the metal tube inside the tank. needless to say the truck didnt run very long.

-BrianM
 

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