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Thread: Civvy Distributor Timing

  1. #1

    Default Civvy Distributor Timing

    When you use the civilian distributor, with vacuum advance, on the 230 engines, where do you set the timing?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Giddings, Texas
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    7,729

    Default

    6 degrees with the vacuum line un hooked.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
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    11,520

    Default

    5 degrees BTDC, just like the mil engine according to my Jeep tuneup manual.
    You must unhook the vacuum line to get it right...then when you are done, hook the vacuum line up while you have the light on the timing scale and the timing should change quite a bit...that way you know the vacuum advance is working at least.

  4. #4

    Default

    Rboltz, what carb are you running on ur 230? 1 or 2 barrel? Where are you hooking your vacuum advance line to?
    68 M-715
    67 M-725

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Catskill New York
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    27

    Default

    I don't know if this matters, but my vacum advance is hooked up front on the ports next to the thermostat housing. I'm curious if someone has it in a different location.

  6. #6

    Default

    yeah, thats what I've been trying to figure out. I've been told (and in my head it makes sense) that you can NOT hook it up to manifold vacuum, it must be hooked off the vacuum from the venturi of the carb, but I can't find any ports to go off of with my 2-barrel holley carb. Basically, it has to be a port "above" the venturi correct? The port that sucks air from the valve cover is the same as manifold vacuum, so that won't work.
    68 M-715
    67 M-725

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Catskill New York
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    27

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    I've been scratching my head with the thought. That's why I was hoping to get some feedback on the idea. My truck seems to run fine where it's hooked up. I am doing a complete tune-up this week, and I was going to investigate further. If something changes I'll definetly post up.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
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    11,520

    Default

    It will work on manifold vacuum but it will be "on" all the time. The preferred point to hook it to is ported vacuum...vacuum that is only there when the throttle plates open...not at idle but off idle.

    The stock 1 barrel does not have a vacuum port to hook to at all, ported or not. I hooked mine to the vacuum tree a the front drivers side of the head behind the thermostat. Worked good, better than stock without the vacuum advance with improved power and gas mileage.

    When I swapped in the 2 barrel, a stock for a 230 2 barrel, it has a ported vacuum port on it just for this purpose.

    What 2 barrel are you using rpgdeity that doesnt have ported vacuum? This would be a port low on the carb, about at the level of the throttle plates.

  9. #9

    Default

    I have been pondering and researching the issue of PORTED vs MANIFOLD vacuum since this tread started. Even did some hands-on testing, on my J10 (ported) and my M715 230 (civy dist - manifold), with a vacuum gauge and a timing light viewing both vacuum and centrifugal advances.

    Having come to some conclusions, it was very difficult to find a reliable source that agreed with my thought that manifold is better than ported. There is so much conflicting information out there on the subject, that it is just amazing but I finally found what I was looking for. IMHO --Very good reading:

    http://www.corvette-restoration.com/.../Timing101.pdf

    “Ported Vacuum” was strictly an early pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more. Don’t believe any one who tells you that ported vacuum is a good thing for performance and driveability – it’s not. Anyone with a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don’t understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it’s for. There are lots of long-time experienced mechanics who don’t understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they’re not alone.

    The difference between ported and non-ported vacuum is at idle ONLY as noted by brute4c above. Once the throttle is opened they both theoretically (not quite) see the same manifold pressure (vacuum).

    I say theoretically because of the venture effect -- Bernoulli theorem (When the speed of a fluid increases the pressure decreases). Ported at the throat of the carburetor is seeing the full velocity of all air being drawn in by all cylinders where some manifold locations will see much less air flow. I really can't find any source to support my theory on this (It may be negligible).

    Conclusion:

    I believe manifold vacuum located as far away from the carburetor as possible is best for the M715 230 engine with a civilian distributor.

    I have no practical experience with both ways, like others do, so this is presented as theory that makes sense to me.

    To stay on topic: My 230 is at five degrees advanced with manifold vac hooked up and slightly retarded without. Probably not optimum but it starts good, has plenty of power and does not overheat.

  10. #10

    Default Sounds Good

    Since I need a port for the PCV I'll use the one as Jon shows, below the carb. The only other one is behind the thermostat so I'll connect the vacuum advance there. Currently, the wiper motors are there but I hope to reconnect those to the vacuum pump.

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