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  #41  
Old February 8th, 2012, 06:43 PM
Ken Snyder Ken Snyder is offline
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Default M715 Brake Shoes

Gentlemen,

I had my shoes religned at Brake & Clutch Supply, Inc in Seattle...

Brake and Clutch Supply, Inc.
2930 Sixth Avenue South
Seattle, WA 98134

cknutson@brakeandclutchsupply.com

They did a great job for about $20 per shoe. Chris said you could send your shoes to him via US Postal and he will relign and send them back to you. You can contact him at the above email or: 206-622-5655

Hope this helps. ken
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  #42  
Old February 9th, 2012, 07:16 PM
saxon saxon is offline
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They do good work, thats where I had my emer brake band re lined, I have delt with these guys a lot.
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  #43  
Old November 18th, 2013, 01:45 PM
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Which shoe is being run in front for those of you modifying civvy shoes? I modded a set of Napa TS320's for the front of my truck, and ran them with the long shoe in the back. I know that the manual calls for the long shoe to be up front. My old shoes that came off were setup with the long shoe in the back too.

Also, does the trap block orientation matter depending on what shoe is in front, or should it always face forward regardless of which shoe is up front?
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  #44  
Old April 27th, 2014, 01:26 PM
rambler247 rambler247 is offline
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I just wanted to add a tip to this thread that seemed to work well for me.

I was removing the drums to do a brake job and ran into the age old stuck screw problem. After not budging them with anything I had on hand I went to Chinese Freight and bought the biggest flat blade they had. It also came with a matching Phillips.

I then took that screwdriver and using a 10mm wrench for torque turned off the first 2 with some elbow grease. Screw #3 proved more difficult and the tip of the screwdriver broke. After grinding down about 1/4" it fit even better with greater grip on the screws and #3 still would budge. Enter a 3' piece of rigid conduit as a cheater bar on the wrench. Presto!! #3 comes off and I move on to the next wheel.

Wheel #2 proved even more difficult. Keep in mind this truck has been sitting in a barn for 20 some years. I thought to myself, there has to be a better way!!

After removing the wheel I figured I might as well run the lugnuts back on with my impact and see if that helps break some rust and relieve some of the tension on the screws.

To my surprise I could almost turn the screw off with the screwdriver by itself!!!!

Your results may vary, but this worked excellent on the next 2 just as rusty wheels.
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  #45  
Old June 1st, 2015, 04:06 PM
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I built the jig aND did my brakes as per the post. It worked out really well. No issues!
The parts guy will always give you problems. It's often times amusing.
Good luck with your brakes man
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  #46  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler247 View Post
I just wanted to add a tip to this thread that seemed to work well for me.

I was removing the drums to do a brake job and ran into the age old stuck screw problem. After not budging them with anything I had on hand I went to Chinese Freight and bought the biggest flat blade they had. It also came with a matching Phillips.

I then took that screwdriver and using a 10mm wrench for torque turned off the first 2 with some elbow grease. Screw #3 proved more difficult and the tip of the screwdriver broke. After grinding down about 1/4" it fit even better with greater grip on the screws and #3 still would budge. Enter a 3' piece of rigid conduit as a cheater bar on the wrench. Presto!! #3 comes off and I move on to the next wheel.

Wheel #2 proved even more difficult. Keep in mind this truck has been sitting in a barn for 20 some years. I thought to myself, there has to be a better way!!

After removing the wheel I figured I might as well run the lugnuts back on with my impact and see if that helps break some rust and relieve some of the tension on the screws.

To my surprise I could almost turn the screw off with the screwdriver by itself!!!!

Your results may vary, but this worked excellent on the next 2 just as rusty wheels.
Tthat is good thinking right there, glad you got them out and gave us a heads up too!
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  #47  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 03:05 PM
johnnie_w2 johnnie_w2 is offline
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I hate to sound like a total noob,,,but i am. What is a #60 brake shoe? Did a google search and got several different numbers back. Thank for the help.
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  #48  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 04:11 PM
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One of the early posts in the thread identifies the part number as follows:

The part number I used is #60 or TS60 NAPA. Then you need the return springs which are United/NAPA #81233
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  #49  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 05:07 PM
johnnie_w2 johnnie_w2 is offline
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Thank you for the help.
Johnnie
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  #50  
Old September 27th, 2015, 06:18 PM
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Without reading me through all the replies: the M715 series has no long and no short lining on the brake shoes, for it is a duo-servo brake. The original thickness is 1/4 inch. If you get your brake shoes relined, ask for 7 mm thickness. This will equalise the wear of the brake drums.
33 years with a M715 and 98000 miles.
greetings
Wolf
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