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Thread: barrman : Carb/HEI

  1. #1
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    Default barrman : Carb/HEI

    Carb/HEI
    Post by barrman on Jul 11, 2006, 9:54am

    When I put the 396 in last year, I didn't buy all new ignition stuff. I have lots of parts sitting around and I just threw together a HEI, cap, coil and wires. They worked and I didn't think about it anymore. I always had a bad hot start problem. The truck would fire right up when cold or sitting more than 30 minutes. But, when hot I had to floor it and crank for 5+ seconds to get it to fire up. I thought it was the Edelbrock carb. I have moved that float setting around so much I can probably do it in my sleep. Nothing helped the hot start problem. So, I finally set the float at the level that gave me the best 3-5K wide open throttle acceleration.

    That was not the best setting to take to the FE. I flooded out a lot on long steep hills. I didn't bring the proper size torx driver with me, so I didn't change it.

    I then flooded out the HEI at the car wash cleaning off the FE mud. I ended up having to replace the cap and coil unit.

    What a difference. It starts like an efi truck now. Now matter what the engine heat or angle. Hit the key and it runs.

    So, if you are running an HEI distributor and are having starting or stalling over rough terrain. Check your in the cap coil! I still haven't touched the carb and have only changed the cap and coil. Same wires, plugs and rotor.

  2. #2

    Default gimpyrobb :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by gimpyrobb on Jul 11, 2006, 10:44am

    Wish you had said something at the F.E., I had a selection of torx drivers with me.

  3. #3
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    Default barrman :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by barrman on Jul 11, 2006, 11:45am

    Thanks Chris, but I was more worried about getting my trailer fixed and ready for the trip home. Saturday would have been the only time I could have fixed it and by then I figured out how to change my driving style to make it work. I just used a gear that kept me above 2200 rpm and kept the t-case in low for slower ground speed. I didn't have any trouble on Saturday. I just feel bad that it took me 2 days to figure out how to drive my own truck.

  4. #4

    Default gimpyrobb :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by gimpyrobb on Jul 11, 2006, 1:08pm

    Those who can-DO, those who can't, TEACH!












    Just kidding, don't kill me in my sleep.

  5. #5

    Default tacomainoh :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by tacomainoh on Jul 11, 2006, 2:11pm

    He won't, he hires out for that kind of thing..... and you know I am perty good with a scope. Stay away from the windows and all that, blah blah.

  6. #6

    Default gimpyrobb :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by gimpyrobb on Jul 11, 2006, 3:07pm

    Better not be you Tac-olma! I'll tell Bump to withhold, uh - FAVORS!

  7. #7

    Default whydah :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by whydah on Jul 13, 2006, 9:06pm

    sounds like you fixed your problem but i was going to suggest starter heat. headers cook starters, making them tough to turn when hot.

  8. #8
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    Default barrman :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by barrman on Jul 14, 2006, 8:19am

    Jeff, I used the stock for the engine cast iron manifolds for heat, fitting and longevity reasons. The starter was actually something I didn't have trouble with. I did worry about it on some of my "stuck on a hill and grind away" restarts.

  9. #9
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    Default wrecker :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by wrecker on Jul 14, 2006, 3:06pm

    Always good to know any little details that may work. First mod to my truck was to swap out the dist for an HEI I had. Since it sat around for an eternity, I replaced all the easy cheap components and the truck really came alive. Like night and day. One thing is they had the volts cut down to 6 for the points system. Make sure you're getting 12 to yours.

  10. #10
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    Default barrman :

    Re: Carb/HEI
    Post by barrman on Jul 14, 2006, 3:23pm

    My stock 230 with the civilian distributor had the 6 volt ballast resistor in it. I already went through the voltage supply problem. Thanks for the suggestion.

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