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Thread: Spicergear, or anyone with 454's

  1. #11

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    I'll agree w/Rollie on that. The real question, and not to irritate anyone about it, is why bother adapting the stock tranny when there are so many cheap 2wd 465's out there. Every manual truck made in the 70's by GM had the 465 (practically). For adapter money you could get the tranny, and all new ujoints and short shaft.

    heheh.
    **I heart Bump_r **

  2. #12

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    guys, i really appreciate all the information. hopefully i am smart enough to make it work. welder, torch,check, oh yeah, great big hammer, time to go to work. thanks. larrywatkins.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NorthEast Texas
    Posts
    261

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    Larry, I haven't tried this but it looks close. Look at a motor mount for a 67-72 chevy truck with a small block. they look like they would bolt to stock frame horns and then you could move the horns forward/backward to get correct firewall clearance. these mounts are simple they bolt to block and then bolt to frame with one large verticle bolt. I would probably replace the frameside bolt with a stud and grind a point on the frame side to line up easier. they are one piece and don't require a companion bracket like '73 and up mounts.

  4. #14

    Default GM parts story

    I'm back...Larry, the motor mounts Tacoma speaks of were the ones I had used for a small block mule motor while I was rebuilding my 427. because they use the stock trucks rubber mount and horn, I though a big motor may break loose so I went with a captured pin GM design. I move my horns up by almost the width of them, then welded the new GM mount to a flat plate, then welded the plate to the frame horn. I figure they take about 100,000miles to wear out in stock form, so I'm not concerned with it being welded in. Oh, I reread my previous post and need to edit a line, my front pumpkin does, in fact, touch the six quart truck pan I have at full articulation. I put grease on the pumpkin and am fine with it.
    Big Blocks RULE!

  5. #15

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    Tom.... grease on the pumpkin?? LOL that's the most ghetto fix yet! I salute you sir! hehe.

    tech content: circle track pans are lower profile and may even work better off road. Well, not circle track, but road racing, whatever: the ones w/the kickouts and baffles.
    **I heart Bump_r **

  6. #16

    Default

    Sometimes they require the use of special built shorter oil pumps because of their low pro design and on the driver's side, sometimes you'll run into a filter issue with the kickout. A buddy of mine ran across this. You'd also need to cut off the passenger side kickout if the truck is of stock suspension. It's good stuff though...and would probably work great on a small block. The pickup on a truck pan/pump is aimed toward the driver's side of the pan. You like the Ghetto Grease huh? The pan could easily be plunked to clear with a hand maul, but...eh...it ain't broke!!
    Big Blocks RULE!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NorthEast Texas
    Posts
    261

    Default

    Five Quart chevelle pan might free up some room

  8. #18

    Default

    ahhh.. self-clearancing works fine.. just go slow so you don't tear the pan. Oh wait, you've got some monster pan, that won't work. LOL
    **I heart Bump_r **

  9. #19

    Default

    You should SEE the two monster pans I have. An aluminum pan with notched pan rails and the sump that goes from the back to about 6" from the front where it finally steps up again. I also have a CAST IRON pan of same description that weighs about 80#!

    Dave, yeah a chevelle or 1st gen camaro pan would be the ticket. Could probably even get away with a deeper sump...uh, somthing Moroso style 8qt may work nice. I think my truck pan on my 427 is 7qt to give me an 8qt system.
    Big Blocks RULE!

  10. #20

    Default

    I suspect I might take a gander at those in a few months here heheh. Hmm. Yes, I think so!
    **I heart Bump_r **

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