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Thread: Replacing NP200 seals

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
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    399

    Default Replacing NP200 seals

    Can someone give me a quick run-through on replacing the NP200 input/output seals? I'm assuming I need to remove the brake drum to get that one, right? What's the easiest way to do that, just unhook the linkage at the lever and pull the whole assembly?

    Thanks!!
    1967 M715 w/w #11812

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Just unbolt the 4 bolts for the drum and slide it out. Wait a minute, you are stock. Just use a 1-1/2" socket to pull the nut off and slide the yoke/drum off together. Pry the old seal out and pound in a new one. Might take you 30 minutes total.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
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    399

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    Just unbolt the 4 bolts for the drum and slide it out. Wait a minute, you are stock. Just use a 1-1/2" socket to pull the nut off and slide the yoke/drum off together. Pry the old seal out and pound in a new one. Might take you 30 minutes total.

    Good deal. On the rest of them, do the yokes just slide out? I haven't looked at this real close yet. I guess I'll have to disconnect all the drive shafts.

    Should I go ahead and do the u-joints while I'm at it? They are all 1310's, right? How many do I need total?
    1967 M715 w/w #11812

  4. #4
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chicklin View Post
    Good deal. On the rest of them, do the yokes just slide out? I haven't looked at this real close yet. I guess I'll have to disconnect all the drive shafts.

    Should I go ahead and do the u-joints while I'm at it? They are all 1310's, right? How many do I need total?
    I have found it easier to pull the bearing retainer off to get the old seal out and new one in. You have to replace some gaskets then but its way easier then trying to pry out the old one.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jester View Post
    I have found it easier to pull the bearing retainer off to get the old seal out and new one in. You have to replace some gaskets then but its way easier then trying to pry out the old one.
    If it's like the ones I've done on other trucks, I just take a punch and mangle the seal which breaks it loose. Then, take a pair of angled pliers, grab hold and use the rounded head of the pliers to sort of roll it out.

    Worked on an NP208, anyway.
    1967 M715 w/w #11812

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Yep, the "beat and pull" method works fine.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #7

    Default

    I just changed the two inside ones since i dropped the trans for the flywheel bolts. go get a seal puller, lisle, napa, ,calvan all make them ( or package them), it looks like two flat hooks on a handle, I have used the punch and mangled them in the past. but this tool you will use forever after you get it.

    Duane

  8. #8

    Default

    here is the puller, available at most local auto parts stores
    http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis56750.html

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