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Thread: Vacuum Advance/Civilian Distributor

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
    282

    Default Vacuum Advance/Civilian Distributor

    I just installed a civilian 230 distributor on my military M715. Two questions. I hooked up a manual hand held vacuum tester (pump) to the vacuum advance port on the distributor with the rubber hose and squeezed the trigger, building vacuum. The vacuum advance arm then moves inside the distributor. Once I stop squeezing the trigger on the vacuum pump, the vacuum advance arm slowly returns to the stock position inside. I am assuming that this is working correctly?
    Also, where is the easiest and best location for vacuum advance hookup on the motor? I don't see any ports above the carb base?
    If worse comes to worse, do you really need the vacuum advace? I know I'll be sacrificing gas mileage and some off idle driveability...Opinions welcomed.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default Connection

    I also have the civilian distributor. When I got the truck, the vacuum advance was connected to the port below the carb, where the PCV valve was to be. I since put the PCV valve back in and connected the distributor advance to the port that is behind the thermostat. Also on this port is the line to the vacuum pump for the wipers. As for the do you need it connected at all, I can't comment. I have driven my truck very little and did not notice any difference, connected or not.

  3. #3

    Default

    You can use a 12 volt civvie dizzy?
    Did you do a 12 volt conversoin to your truck? Or am I missing somehting obvious?

    Zach

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    The vacuum advance can be used or not...the mil unit doesnt use it...but it does give noticeable increases in both smoothness on takeoff from a stop and mpg...you will also be able to hold a few more mph when going up hills, wont drop off as fast. Without it, you wont notice a difference from the stock unit...the big difference between the 2 is the vacuum advance...well and the 12 volts.

    You can use a small 24 to 12 volt converter torun the distibutor...I am using a 5 amp fuse in that line on mine and its plenty...I think 3 is enough...

    I have mine hooked to the vacuum port on the head at the front of the drivers side. There is no port on the carb for it to hook to.

    On whether it is working right or not...when you apply vacuum, it should draw in...you should then stop adding vacuum but dont release the vacuum and see if the advance unit stays drawn in or if it slowly goes out...if it holds the vacuum then, you are good to go...if it releases, the diaphragm is leaking meaning you need a new one. I have tested them by putting vacuum hose on it, drawing vacuum in mouth and then letting the hose stick to my tongue...it makes a seal and wait 20 seconds or so...if it doesnt release, good.

    The stock vacuum units are no longer available...you would have to modify one from another applications unit to fit this one if there was a problem with yours.

  5. #5

    Default Voltage Change

    We have discussed this before. The distributor doesn't care 12 volt vs 24 volt. It's the coil and the CURRENT across the points that matters.

    See;
    ignition condensor

    I use a civvy distributor and had a 24 volt coil but switched back to a 12 volt coil and increased the ballast resistor.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Quite true on the voltage...I was thinking of swapping the whole ignitor for 12V replacements...which would include the coil.

  7. #7

    Default

    I'm running the civvy distributor on a stock engine too. I have a regular 12V coil mounted on the fender running to the distributor. My truck makes a very noticeable, objectionable exhaust smell when the vacuum advance is hooked up. I don't notice much difference in driveability so I leave the advance disconnected.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Mine has no difference in the exhaust smell but definitely has performance improvements...wonder what is going on there...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
    282

    Default

    Can someone recommend a ballast resistor for my 12 volt system? I wonder if you can buy an aftermarket coil that I can bolt to the inner fender panel with a built in ballast resistor? A wiring diagram would be helpful. I plan on using any stock 12 volt coil...like one from a 70's/80's Mopar.

    Right now I have 12 volts going straight to the coil...just for test running the motor. Thanks!

  10. #10

    Default

    Just ask the parts house for a 12v coil w/ internal resistor
    68 M-715 MVPA #2710

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