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Old August 3rd, 2017, 07:23 PM
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Default Stock master cylinder

For anyone who has the stock master cylinder still in their truck, maybe you can answer my question. I was wondering about the rubber hose leading out the top of it. Is it just a breather, or should it be attached to something? I still have a hard time understanding how a truck of this size and weight could have such a tiny master cylinder.
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Old August 3rd, 2017, 08:18 PM
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It's just a vent!

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Old August 4th, 2017, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullmoose View Post
It's just a vent!

Lee
Yes, that hose is just a vent for te master cylinder as Lee has already said. It goes to one of the pipes sticking out of the air cleaner. Part of the attempt to keep water out of it. If you have the fording kit that hose would keep the brake fluid dry by essentially moving the opening to the master cylinder up high.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 06:20 AM
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Ok, got it. Good to know. I figured a breather, but I just noticed mine wasn't connected anywhere. I'll have to climb up and check it out. Thanks guys.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 06:26 AM
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By the way Don, I don't have a fording kit, but I sure like the way they look up front. Extending the tail pipe straight up is another story. I know you don't have to use both front and back. Those kits are rather hard to come by also. When you do, they can be very pricey. I barely clear the garage door opening now, maybe by an inch. Not sure if the breather tube and cap rise above the highest bow in the roof or not. Maybe a winter project, we'll see.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 06:30 AM
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Yep attaches to the port on the back side of the air cleaner inlet pipe. You can see it in this pic sticking up and looping to the inlet pipe in the back. Opposite the one on the front side.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 06:44 AM
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Thanks Dave. I need to go check this out. I thought it was connected at one time, but now the rubber hose is just tucked behind the air cleaner inlet.
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Old February 24th, 2019, 11:02 PM
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militarypotts and Don Cavey,

I have read over the years that keeping the OEM "single" carb is risky. Yes, the Corvette M/C mod is not OEM, but it is a lot safer. What is the feeling with you other Zoners?

I also remember you have to order the correct Corvette M/C as they had two different piston diameters. I think I remember Brute has been in on the conversations...

mjc
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Old February 25th, 2019, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJCougler View Post
militarypotts and Don Cavey,

I have read over the years that keeping the OEM "single" carb is risky. Yes, the Corvette M/C mod is not OEM, but it is a lot safer. What is the feeling with you other Zoners?

I also remember you have to order the correct Corvette M/C as they had two different piston diameters. I think I remember Brute has been in on the conversations...

mjc
Thanks for keeping the discussions active and constructive. I cannot tell you how much I have learned here with the generous help of other members. These trucks are so simple and basic that we can just keep them going.

It’s not my intention to sway anyone’s decision as to which master cylinder to use. I am not an engineer and don’t wish redesign the braking system. Why? I am not trained nor qualified to do such. I just know that I can always refer to my TMs for guidance. I am not a mechanic, only a hobbyist. I guess my reason for using what came with the truck is that it is easier.

We have many professional mechanics who know what makes a vehicle go and stop. I guess my only question would be, how many single master cylinder braking systems have had a catastrophic failure when properly maintained?

Certainly a dual master cylinder offers additional safety. Again, no argument there. But in full disclosure, I also have a 1965 Chevrolet Corvair and guess what? It too has a single master cylinder.

Please understand that I am a “stock” guy who likes to see things the way that they were delivered. (I even converted my truck back from the electronic turn signal to the electro-mechanical relay box ) Hopefully we can get the exact information that you are looking for, part or model number, bore diameter etc. Also, when converting to a dual master cylinder, do you need a proportioning valve? And if so, which one? Food for thought and I truly wouldn’t know how to determine what to use.
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Old February 25th, 2019, 08:57 PM
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One of the first things I found out about my 725, was that the brake lines and cylinders were shot. After reading a bunch of posts from this forum, I decided to go with a dual master. It was mentioned on here, from Napa. Works great. I like the idea of having two separate systems, just Incase one fails.
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