I found these browsing around. I'm sure these are old news to the gurus here. Any feedback from anyone using them?
http://www.uglytruckling.com/M715%20...715%20kits.htm
I found these browsing around. I'm sure these are old news to the gurus here. Any feedback from anyone using them?
http://www.uglytruckling.com/M715%20...715%20kits.htm
The guys that have gone through the process of installing them all write that they are great.
But, the cost is prohibitive to many. Especially when you consider the cost of a 14bolt/D60open knuckle swap. It all comes down to what you want to do with your truck and how much you want to spend.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
Hey Uberhahn,
I have both kits (front and rear) and am doing my homework before the install. From the directions you will need to buy both caliper sets and rear rotors which will run up the price a bit more. Also, from what I understand you need to change the master cylinder and should add a booster, probably hydro for me for power steering purposes, which means you need to add a pump and bracket and hoses, etc. One more thing to think about is that the new rotors (Chevy in the front, Ford in the rear) "I think" will have the new 8 lug pattern which will not fit the stock bolt pattern. This is cool if you were planning to change wheels, but sucks if you want to keep your split rings, and its something you will have to deal with if swapping axles anyway. All in all it is a bit of a job, and yeah you could probably bolt in a new axle, but I like the looks of the closed knuckle, its not something you see everyday, and something that you see even less of is a closed knuckle with discs. Hope this helps, and if anybody has any tips on the install lemeknow, Jay Dog
I found some install pics from others:
http://bigscaryjeep.com
Cool link, between the Helitool and Bigscaryjeep instructions most of the work is done. As for the wheel concerns I had, the stock hubs are reused. I guess I would have figured that out when the 44" mudders on beadlocks arrived and didnt fit. Thanks, Jay Dog.
Anybody else have any tips/tactics?
The ugly truckling discs keep the stock wheel bolt pattern. They are easy to install for anyone that can read and use basic hand tools. Can't tell you yet how they work because my truck is not finished yet. Should be done this fall, then I can report.
a tip i,ll offer if you get those from heli tool. make them install you wheel studs...... those knuckle heads weld the flange on and leave the studs out then you have to cut your studs and grind off the corners on the backside for install. all for what ????????? make em install em before they weld the flanges on. i,ve got both front and rear kits and you dont need hydro or a booster if you dont want it......
JMO
bob in tn.
As if you haven't figured out from my website, the front discs work GREAT.
I'm now busy saving up my $$$ for GAS to go 4 wheeling!
Oops. I forgot my website wasn't in my signature....
www.bigscaryjeep.com
Last edited by FSJGuy; July 13th, 2007 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Added URL
Just opened some of the boxes to make shure everything was good. The front hub flanges have the holes drilled in them so the the studs slide right through. I found what you were talking about with the rear. The studs were put in after they welded the flange. You can tell from the bevel on the stud. My guess is to make room for the mig nozzle or the fixture they weld in wouldnt allow. It would take some time to do each stud. While looking through the rest of the boxes -its all quality parts and machine work here, I have seen other posts about the parts and shipping/packaging and have to agree, Thumbs up.
How are the brakes without the a booster? Did you run the Chevy master thats recomeded? Thanks, J
I'm used to the FSJ trucks, so I prefer the booster. Just my .02
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