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Thread: NP 205 brackets

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default NP 205 brackets

    I have a 1972 NP 205 divorced t-case from a Chevy blazer. I will be putting it in the M715 soon. I thought about swaping the internal parts of the 205 into the 200 case but it just doesnt seem like its worth it. plus I gain a PTO that I will be using for the winch.

    The questions are:

    1 Is this a fairly standard case to use so that it fits most of what everyone else swaping in a 205 is doing? I dont know if all the divorced cases use the same mounting points.
    2 I would be making the brackets so that it will use the original cross beams and would use the original brackets in conjunction with some add-on brackets so that the PTO on the t-case can be used. This would place it in the same spot as factory. I will be shifting the driver side mount over more tward the drivers side frame to clear the PTO mount area. Does anyone have any suggestions or see possible problems with this setup?
    3 would anyone be interested in buying any brackets if I made more while im at it? I'm pretty busy right now with getting the truck ready for hauling wood and I have a wood boiler to build also, but this winter I could crank out a bunch if anyone would be interested.


    It would be nice to have a bunch of "standard" tech articles that show a good way to modify the M715 that are easy to follow and use common parts. obviously there are many ways to get to the same point, but it would be great if someone new to the site could just look up a standard NP205 t-case swap and see blueprints of the brackets that need to be made, pictures of the installed t-case and information on what years and models to look for a case from. I would have liked to see an article on engine mounts for installing a ford motor into the M715 particularly a 351 Cleveland or M motor. I ended up making the brackets myself but wasted a whole lot of time making them and taking out the motor 3 times. My point is that a lot of us are reinventing the wheel just to modify our trucks when we could find a good way and write up an article on it so that others could follow it. I had suggested using CJ7 windshield wiper parts to make a setup for the M715 and it works great, Gwen beat me to that one, but I certainly wish it was a posted article so everyone could see that it is an option compared to those single wiper motors that don't work with each other. I am sure that there are lots of ingenious ideas that people have come up with or discovered that some part or annother works on an M truck. it would be cool to list these somehow. What do you think?

  2. #2

    Default

    Here's a link to the NP205 brackets on my truck. It is a divorced dodge NP205. It uses the original cross beams like you mentioned.

    One more NP205 mount w/pics

    If you created brackets that allowed someone with a stock setup to use the stock jackshaft and driveshafts you would probably have a lot of people interested. There has been talk about this idea but it hasn't happened yet, as far as I know. Transfering the parking break is the other big part of the t-case swap, but there have been some posts lately that explain how to do that too.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    I was thinking more of a web page that is connected to this site that would have easy to follow blueprints and pictures with measurements that would make things easier than a thread style.
    I finished my brackets today and will be putting the case back in the truck tomorrow provided the weather is good. The t-case can be moved forward or backward 3/4 of an inch. I used the original brackets also so if someone were to copy my brackets, all you would have to do is bolt the new brackets to the t-case and to the original brackets, then move the driver side original riser over closer to the frame on the driver side and drill two new holes. bolt everything back together and your done. As far as I can tell, it should be in the exact position as factory, but I will double check when its all in. My jack shaft will have to be longer anyway since I used a 351 cleveland and a Ford T-18 trans. I left as much room as I could for the PTO, still keeping it as simple as possible. I cant afford the PTO right now so I have no way of telling if it fits. I was told that the PTO was 6 1/2 inches from the mounting flange so it will be close but should fit. This PTO is a Chelsea unit that I found on Ebay

  4. #4
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Since my second NP200 is toast, I am very interested in your set-up. Send me info if you can.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Thre are at least a dozen members who have posted how they did their mounts for the NP205 swap...no 2 are the same...none have been proven weak or lacking and none have been proven to be "ideal".

    Not sure how to make a web page of that many different approches that all solve the same problem...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    Here's a classic thread on that right here, Jester: Divorced 205 install - Terrapin fab style
    -- Tim Taylor


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    I put the T-case in today, even though its raining. It fits but touches the floor so I will have to drill 2 new holes in each bracket. it will work perfectly and is in the factory position and still can be moved forward or rearward by about 3/4 inch so I can change the jack shaft. I am not sure what the height of the yokes are compaired to original since my paper with measurements blew away in the wind storm we had. It doesnt matter what the height of the yokes are really since this is the absolute highest the 205 can go and still leave about 1/2 inch of clearance to the floor. The t-case is also tilted at the factory angle so the back is lower than the front. this should make the rear driveshaft not hit the storage box. The box should be about 2 1/2 inches higher than the driveshaft.


    I have looked at a few of the posts for the 205 swap and all have great pics and are novel ideas but none that I have seen so far have exact measurements, and each one has its own unique style depending on what the fabricators skills are. It seems to me that even though I see the pictures of how it was done, If I were to copy the design I would still have to think alot of how I was going to fabricate the mounts and do a lot of measuring. I see that the International cases and maybe the Dodge cases have a different mounting system than the GM style. I think the GM style is the easiest to adapt. I need to post some pics of what Ive got. Its so dirt simple anyone could make these and you wouldnt even need a welder to make them if you wanted to make one bend in a piece of metal instead. I would assume that most people would want the T-case in the original position no matter what motor and trans set up they have. It makes sense to only modify the jack shaft and leave the others alone. It will take me a while, but I will use my flat bed scanner to copy the blueprints with the exact measurement on them to post.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    The pics I promissed. I will be posting a pic of the actual measurements because without those what is the point?









    These show what the brackets look like for now but I will be modifying them a little since the passenger side has a little extra metal that could be cut off, and the holes that the original brackets bolt to will be moved up 1/2 inch to allow some clearance for the T-case to the floor.

  9. #9
    Jester Guest

    Thumbs up

    Very nice and super simple - like it.

    Since I am w/o a t-case right now, I am very interested in seeing measured drawings of the brackets.

    Are you going to modify the 205 to use twin sticks? If not, how are you going to modify the shifters? Why does the jackshaft need to be modified? What about putting the drum brake from a 200 on the rear output?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    I will eventually modify the T-case to be a twin stick, but I need this truck soon to haul wood so I am thinking of just using one of the original sticks to make the thing work. I need to modify the jack shaft since I swaped in a ford engine with a ford t-18 trans. The trans is somewhere around 5 1/2 inches farther forward of where the original was. I will do something sometime with either the original drum brake setup or make something custom out of cheap parts for the E-brake. I am always broke so if I do a project you can pretty much garantee that it is cheap to build but may take some time on my part. I finally got the Cleveland started a few days ago but I still need to make the jack shaft longer, fix whatever is wrong with the brake light circuit, make my own custom exhaust system out of pieces of scrap pipe (cant afford the 300-400 bucks I have been quoted by 3 exhaust places) and make new centers for my hummer rims and mount the boggers on them. Plus I still need to design and build a wood boiler to heat my house since the gas prices are supposed to go up 80% this winter. With any luck I may get it done by the end of the year.

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