New coil

[Anson]

I cleaned the points off and still nothing, so I think the coil is bad. I got it out last night and have a part number of 201781(IDA-9).

I tried ebay and Saturn surplus with no luck. Does anyone know where I can find a nos or replacement coil?

Thanks

[Barrman]

Franks Surplus on E-Bay, VPW or Antelope Valley.

When you have the ignition on, do you get a spark if you put a screw driver on the points and anything else metal?

[Anson]

Not all the time. Sometimes I do, and it will start. Then it won't start, and there isn't any spark.

[randyscycle]

Be sure you're getting good voltage to the coil with the switch on as well. Check it with a voltmeter at the positive terminal.

[BubbaWilkins]

Its an odd problem to be sure. I'm not sure I would agree that its the coil itself though. Granted, this one is built into the distributor, but its the general nature of small transformers like this to either work or not work. I'm thinking you have a bad wire somewhere ahead of it.

[brute4c]

If it helps....

The wire that screws to the side of the ignitor housing, on the coil side, with the semi rounded cap runs directly to the on/off switch where it is attached in the upper right position as viewed from the front. There are 4 positions on the back the on/off switch, 2 rows of 2.
The wire number is 12.

So if you arent having trouble with any other systems...at least no known trouble, you can disconnect #12 at the on/off switch and at the ignitor hook up a continuity meter to both ends and wiggle the wire around and see if it loses continuity between the ends.

If the wire is bad somewhere splice it if you can...the end that attaches to the ignitor has an unusual end that I am not sure is available...I could be wrong on that though.


Battery power gets to the on/off switch via the cable to the foot starter switch that then runs toward the alternator. There is a splice between the foot starter switch and the alternator that branches off 5 wires...2 of these wires go directly to the on/off switch as wire #11...both of them are marked with 11. The #11 wires connect to the left side of the on/off switch as viewed from the front...one above the other.


I suppose it is possible that the on/off switch isnt getting power consistently due to a bad wire OR that the switch itself is bad...though I think a wire problem is much more likely here.

[rboltz]

I thought mine was bad also but it turned out to be other problems. I have a new one in the box. I think I got it from AB Linn a few months ago. It is a replacement aftermarket one. Says; NEW*STAR - Parts Component Group. S-B124 (replacement for 118712) I think the same coil is in the M-37 if I remember correctly so there are lots of M-37 parts people out there.

[rboltz]

Follow the link to page 19. Also, for everyone else. Lots of electrical parts here; lights, switches, ignition, etc. for your military trucks.

http://www.sandstruck.com/pdf/military.pdf

[rboltz]

$45 from Erik's Military. Bought lots of stuff here over the years. email milgenrepr@aol.com or call 760-747-8863. I have a catalog but it is not PDF.

[MJCougler]

I'm reactivating this post. What is unique about coils? My 24-volt truck is running with the a civilian distributor using two external ballast resistors to step-down the voltage.

I need to order a spare coil. Many threads have said the current coils being sold are made in China and are junk.

I want to add the pertronicx ignition and they tell me I need a 3-ohm black coil with an external bias resistor. Their black 40,000 volt, oil filled coil is about $30.

Does anyone have a common part number that NAPA or AAP can cross reference that is 3-ohm?

With the civilian distributor, do I need to purchase a 24v military coil from Eric's Military or VPW?

Thanks,