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  #11  
Old February 19th, 2004, 04:05 PM
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There is also the possibility that you have a mismatched pan/timing cover. Until I think '74 or so chevy used a thin front pan to cover seal . Later they changed to a thicker seal. Most gasket sets come with a diagram to show how to tell which one you need as well as both seals. anyway, if you use the thin seal on an engine that takes the thick seal it will dribble when oil starts slinging or if OVERFILLED. May not be it at all but something to check. Some gasket companys offer a one piece seal/pan gasket for pre 85engines. they are expensive but seal great.
  #12  
Old February 19th, 2004, 04:44 PM
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Brian,

HAHAHA!

I know on certain engines that you are supposed to have a tool that centers on the crank snout and holds the timing cover in perfect alignment. I figured the SBC was modern enough to not need that tool. When I ran into that problem on a flatty, I put the balancer in position before snugging up a few timing cover bolts, then removed the balancer and finished the rest of the bolts.

The reason is that the holes in the timing cover allow enough play that the cover can move about a bit when you're installing it.

Why do you have 2 PCV valves? I hope you don't have one on each valve cover.

Chris
  #13  
Old February 19th, 2004, 05:27 PM
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Default Resealing a NP200 Transfer case

Chris that's a good point, coming from you... anyway, that's a good tip there... forgot about that one, as it's usually a done deal AFTER THE MOTOR"S INSTALLED! but this is B we're dealing with here.
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  #14  
Old February 19th, 2004, 06:32 PM
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On chevy there are two dowel pins in front of block that align timing cover.
  #15  
Old February 19th, 2004, 07:03 PM
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Default Stress Reliever

That's what I figured Dave. Brian probably thought the dowels were roller bearings and put them on his rockers - voila - roller rockers!

Chris
  #16  
Old February 19th, 2004, 09:53 PM
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Brian,
One more opinion for you. Once you pick the proper front pan seal size (the black rubber one) for your pan/timing cover of course is this. The paper or cork gaskets need to be glued to the block first. I use 3M weather adheasive. Then the front and rear seals get stuck on. I use silicone at each corner where the seals/gaskets meet with a little bit of 3M in the middle to hold it on.

I wrote this out because, if you are putting the rubber seals on the block and glueing the gaskets to the pan and then bolting the pan on, it will leak.

I hope your balancer sleeve work did the trick.
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  #17  
Old February 20th, 2004, 06:25 AM
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Default engine oil

Have you narrowed it down to a seal or a gasket? The harmonic balcancers can get a ring worn in them and a parts store sells a very thin sleave that slips over it called a ready sleave or speedy sleave...something like that. If it's gasket, are you allowing the gasket cement (Black RTV, I hope) to set up? If not, gaskets will move. Other thing...are you PCV's in the correct way? They are one way valves in if in wrong will not let the engine vent...remember when you were pushing out intake gaskets? I think by now you should have a real good grasp on installing gaskets and I'm leaning toward crankcase ventilation being the problem. 3000RPM on stock motor parts and breather is a bunch. You're to the point where you need to either get a pair of racing valve covers with a pair of big breathers on it, or accept a leak. OH, also on the rear main you wanted to try and get just a little RTV between the ends of the seal so that oil can't get between where they butt together.
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Old February 20th, 2004, 07:51 AM
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Then, there's guys like me. Having never had the facilities with which to rebuild an engine in, I've never had the oppurtunity to put one together. This is probably the reason that when it came to putting a new engine in my 67' M715, I deferred to an expert.
  #19  
Old February 20th, 2004, 08:09 AM
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Default Transfer Case Leaks

All En masse-

Last night I removed my new balancer, and measured the distance around the crank snout. It was centered and even, so that let me know that the timing cover was not skewed. I replaced the seal with a new one, and this time really greased it up good with assembly lube. I then put my balancer back on using my new-fangled installation tool that made the work a snap. I had greased the balancer too.
I started it up and let it idle at 1500 for about 10 minutes and it didn't leak a drop. I was wiping off the already leaked oil as the motor ran and (in a moment of stupidity) stuck my finger in the bellhouseing. A tooth on the flywheel must have snagged my middle finger and now I have a split nail.
I was pleased that the motor isn't leaking, and hope that under load and at 3K it won't leak.

Spicer,
I agree with you about the venting contributing to the leak. It seems to me that I have more problems with gaskets than I should. I have retrocatively taken your advice and today I am to recieve:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ME:B:EOAB:MT:6

Thanks guys for all your help!
-B.
  #20  
Old February 20th, 2004, 08:24 AM
Nuke_spicergear Nuke_spicergear is offline
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Nice covers!...a bit of nostalgia there. Expect the lower edge of the breather cover to get oil damp from blowby mist.
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