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Thread: Rubber Booty

  1. #1

    Default Rubber Booty

    part to replace rubber on coupler,Crown,#8132676
    http://www.jeep4x4center.com/cj7/steering-gears.htm
    not exact, but darn close.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Lone Pine, CA
    Posts
    451

    Default

    Nice - I like how for $2 more you can get the little drive "squares" with the boot and retainer. Have you tried this part for yourself?

    Chris

  3. #3

    Default Rubber Booty

    I know the rubber boot works I have installed it on my M715.I didnt have to replace the metal squares or spring, Call them, that how I got the diemenison for the boot, Out of 3 steering assy. i had no rubber boot, I gave them a call and figured for 10 bucks I d try it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I put a new boot and the two square things on mine a year ago. Those little square things make more of a difference in handling than you would think.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5

    Default

    I have this same boot to put on my M715... is there a trick to getting it on, I can't seem to get it over the post that holds the 2 little square things on, do I need to take the steering wheel off, pull the shaft out of the column and put the boot on from that direction?

    Or maybe I need to be more patient and pull and work it on there?

    Thanks!

  6. #6

    Default

    Yes you have to pull the sterring wheel .it goes on from the top. i dont think you can get it over the post at the bottom , try useing silicon spray when it comes to dealing with rubber , silicon spray makes the job alot easier .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Georgetown, CA
    Posts
    418

    Default

    The whole kit does make a world of difference. One thing to note, with the the litle square pieces, it tightens it up quite a bit, . .but the housing is still worn, so after one repair with just the inserts, down the road when it is time to do it again, I would change the housing too. Personally, if you aren't keeping the truck stock, I would swap out to a u-joint shaft. . .FWIW. Also, with some patience, you can get the boot over the shaft, take the insert blocks off, clean everything good, put some silicone spray on the boot, and carefully and patiently work it over the pins, then grease and reassemble. ...

  8. #8

    Default

    I was afraid of that....

    How would one go converting to a U-joint shaft, would I have to change the entire shaft in the column? I can't see how to convert it with those silly pins in the way.

    Also, how does the horn button come off? I have broke too many horn buttons to pull really hard on this one...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Georgetown, CA
    Posts
    418

    Default

    I went to a later model FSJ pickup column. I had to do some cutting and trimming of the column to make it fit in the mounts, but was able to get it in without cutting the dash. I can't use the ignition switch on the column, but can use the turn signal switch. This column had a regular u-joint instead of that type of yoke joint. I don't know what year they changed them, but the shaft size is different, so you would have to do more research than I did to make the lower u-joint shaft match up to your column. Another thought, Borgeson makes a replacement u-joint shaft for dodge pickups that also use that yoke type shaft, they are pricey, but might be an option also.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Horn button:
    There is a top piece that is plastic and should pop off with a srew driver...sometimes they are stubborn...might something hot to try to get it to pop...hot water in a ziplock maybe?
    Under that, there is another piece that pops out with a screwdriver...the look of this piece varies between several versions that I have seen so far.

    Both of these pieces have a little cutout somewhere on the rim that a flat blade screwdrver will fit in...the top plastic one being the easiest to break...

    I happen to have sinus trouble so I have these gel packs that can go in the microwave and can be made real hot...that would help for the cap if you have such a thing...

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